I am Fine, and You?

September 20, 2011

Let's have a moment of silence...for my Blackberry. It died a horrible death a few days before my birthday.

Why have I been so silent? Well, I had about 5 saved blog entries on my Blackberry, that I cant manage to get off. They were good ones too. About being African-American in Mozambique, my take on women's rights and the current state of women in Mozambique...stuff like that. Oh well... One day I'll get the energy to write some meaningful posts, but for now, you just get a random update

Here's whats been going on:

1. A few months ago, in June, a kitten appeared on my doorstep. I fed him, and he never went away. I named him Pfifer. He was cute, until he became an attention whore, and always wanted me to pet him and hold him. He was really loud and obnoxious. Especially if I wasnt paying attention to him. So I made him an outdoor cat, which really meant he just hung out in the yard until I let him come inside to eat. Two weeks ago, he fell down the well in my yard and drowned. I'm a horrible mother. And thats the end of that story...

2. My landlord got two puppies. They were so cute. He sold one, and we kept the other, Whiskey. I dont know what I did to that dog, but she WILL NOT leave me alone. And she's figured out a way to get out of the fence when I leave so she can follow me. Whenever I try to leave. For work (or whereever else I may be going). Its cute that she loves me, but I literally cannot leave my house without this dog running after me. So I've been late to work a lot lately...

3. I started a REDES group, which is going well. What is REDES, you ask? Well, it stands for Raparigas Em Desinvolvimento, Educacao, e Saude...which in English means Girls in Development, education and health. Its a national Peace Corps project that essentially creates groups of adolescent girls in the community and we meet and discuss all different types of issues related to these 3 topics, as well as self esteem building, critical thinking and life skills. Some groups also do income generation or computer classes or other activities. My girls do theater and singing. And lucky for us, our first performance is coming up! I have about 13 girls, and they came up with a skit about HIV/AIDS that they will be presenting next Sunday. We even made matching headbands out of capulana fabric (with little flowers!) that we'll be wearing. I'm so proud of them!

4. The general consensus around these parts is that at first glance, people automatically think I'm either Mozambican, South African or Brazilian (Brazilian especially if my hair isnt braided). Those are what I get the most...but here's a list of other countries that people have guessed I'm from:

-Angola (The new Miss Universe is from Angola!)

-Malawi

-Zimbabwe

-Zambia

-Tanzania

-Sao Tome & Principe

-Cabo Verde

-Cuba

-Nigeria

-Guinea Bissau

-Portugal (I know right? WTF?)

-I have also been asked if I speak French, which I assume means people are thinking I'm from West/French speaking Africa

One guy (a cab driver in Maputo) guessed American. He got a gold star (no...he didnt really. But I was impressed) Most people just think I'm from Maputo, even people in Maputo are shocked that I'm not from there, but the further out I go, people automatically know I'm not like them, and start with their random guessing. I think most people just guess the countries they know of, and its not really based on how I look at all (like Nigeria...and Portugal...I dont look Nigerian at all. And I sure as heck dont look Portuguese...)

5. I GOT A BIRTHDAY CARE PACKAGE! My college friend Brian...it was right on time too! So happy...

6. I was walking the other day to the store in my community. I usually cut across the primary school because I'm lazy and dont want to walk around. I heard this little boy talking to his friends in Portuguese "I'm gonna do it! Watch! There she is!" I kept walking. His friends were giggling, and the little boy walked up to me, with a big smile on his face, and said, in English "How are you today, friend?" I responded "I'm good, thank you, how are you?" and in one breath, he said "IAMFINEANDYOU!" then he ran off, squeeling to his friends in Portugese "I DID IT! I DID IT!" I thought it was cute.

7. Further proof that I am crazy - I just finished a cross country trip, overland, from my site to Maputo. All so I could see the opening ceremony of the All-Africa Games 2011. Did I make it? Yes. Was it worth it? Yes! 3 days of traveling, each way. (with stops to visit friends of course). I had so much fun. Yes, I would do it again.

8. There are times when I feel like I am going to die from boredom. That was just a random thought.

9. We just got 30 new health volunteers. And in a few weeks, we're getting new education volunteers. In total, there will be around 170 volunteers in Mozambique.

10. As of the end of this month, I will have been in this country for a full year! Yay me! (I did it...somehow, I actually made it...)

Anyway, you people reading this should send me things.

I will hopefully post my other blogs soon, or at least rewrite and post soon.

The Sweetest Words ive Ever Heard...

June 6, 2011

So the other day, I was sitting at the office with the other women in my org, and we got into a very heated religious debate. The head of admin and I are about the same age. The nurse and our domestic help lady are older. The nurse tried to say that the "fruit" that Adam and Eve weren't allowed to eat was representative of sex, and once they had sex, God became angry with them, and that's what happened. She said she was taught by old Portuguese Catholic nuns, and that it was the truth. Violetta agreed with her. Angela and I contested that man and woman were put on the Earth to procreate, and to procreate, you have to have sex, so that interpretation couldn't have been true at all.

I could tell you how heated it got, but you wouldn't believe me. But it was intense.

Eventually, someone brought up the fact that I don't want to have kids, so how was I arguing that man and woman were made to procreate. And then everyone turned on me...and it was another one of THOSE conversations....

"You don't want to have a little baby that looks like you?". "You don't want to see what your child would look like?". "What kind of legacy do you want to leave on this earth?". "How will people remember you?". "Just have a baby and give it to me, I'll take care of it". "What if you get pregnant? You're not going to abort it, are you?". "You know, its a sin for a woman not to have a baby."

The usual arguments. I was fully prepared to defend my decision, no big deal. But then it took a turn for the worse....

The nurse said "this time next year, you're going to be pregnant. I know these things. You're GOING to get pregnant". She said it with such seriousness and impact...its as if she plans on chasing me down and impregnating me herself. Then she said "its gonna be twins". Then Angela, the younger one, said that she's going to pray every night that I get pregnant with triplets.

Now...I'm certain that God knows just as well as I do that I am the LAST person who needs to have a baby (or 3). So, in the interest of the child (ren), and my mental health, that will probably be one of the prayers that He doesn't answer. But still....I was actually OFFENDED. And hurt. I told them they were all really mean, and I left the conversation.

I mean...how could someone wish something so terrible on me?

Anyway, fast forward to last week. The nurse has a worried look on her face. "All that money I had....I just got paid, and my daughter needed money for school, and my granddaughter needed money, and I had to buy them food....I think you're right.."

"Right about what?". I said.

"Not having children. They're expensive. And now I don't have any money. You're right"

I laughed. I know I'm right. But she wasn't the only one to realize it...

Last Wednesday was "Dia da Criança" or "Children's Day". Its a day where Mozambican parents pretty much spoil their kids. And through spoiling the kids, adults reap ther benefits too (like if you're in a house that can never afford meat, but you saved up so your child could eat meat on dia da criança, this 6yr old isn't gonna eat this entire slab of ribs by herself, right?). Anyway, Angela, the younger one turns to me and says "you're right". I say "what" and she said "this day is expensive. You're right not to want children..."

I think they finally get it. And I think they might leave me alone now...well a little bit. I think they're getting used to it. Someone had a baby at the office, and they all said "oh! It looks like Kyla!". Then they laughed, and said "oh, she doesn't want kids"...and then that was that. No long debates. No evil wishes. Could it be?

Random Ridiculousness...

Here's a collection of really random things from my really random mind...

1. In Americaland, we are right natured. We're taught to walk on the right side, drive on the right side, etc etc. Well here...its the opposite. And I'm having issues with that. Every time I get into a car, I go to the wrong side...the drivers side, then I have to run around to the other side and apologize to the driver. Everyone stares at me when I ride my bike, because I tend to ride on the wrong side...against traffic. When I cross the street, I have to constantly look both ways because I'm not quite sure which way traffic is going. Not to mention when I'm walking down the street and someone is approaching on the same path, I step to the wrong side to let them pass, so we end up in an awkward standoff type situation, where I step to the left and they step the same way, and so I try to go the other direction and they do the same and both of us are confused and don't know how to let the other person pass so we just pause until someone decides to just go around....

Yeah...its awkward.

2. Did you know people create and keep pigeons as pets??? Who knew that stupid annoying bird could be a pet. A pet that is cared for way better than the dogs around here...

3. My new name is "Americana". I was walking to work one day and a chapa drove by. The cobrador was sitting ON TOP of the chapa (I mean...why not, right?) And he saw me and started yelling "Americana!! Hey! Americana! We're going to Lichinga, are you coming! Hey!!! Americana!!". Then, the next day, one of my activistas couldn't remember my name (or didn't even care to use my name) and addressed me as...you guessed it..."Americana". Someone on the street was trying to get my attention..."Americana". Yeah...that's my name around these parts.

4. I was walking home for lunch one day past the primary school. The kids were singing the Mozambican National Anthem. I realized that while they were outside singing, people across the street had stopped and started singing, and I was the only person walking. So I stopped and thought "is it disrespectful for me to walk by while they're singing the National Anthem?" I stood there and waited for them to finish. Thing is, I had stopped right out in the open, so everyone could see me. I felt awkward, because if I could have kept walking, everyone saw me standing there watching kids sing...I dunno. It was kind of weird. I felt like people were looking at me like "why are you watching these children singing, weirdo?". But I couldn't move because I didn't want to run the risk of being disrespectful.

5. Women in groups can get really rowdy. That's all I have to say about that.

6. I love street vendors, I really really do.

The Great Mato Adventure

A few weeks ago, my org decided to round up the nurse, some activistas, me, and some other colleagues in our pick up truck, and head out to the mato.

What and where is the mato, you ask?

The mato is way out there. Like the boonies, but in Africa. The bush. Not in the town, but the outskirts. Like...you know...far. But we have people there too who need our help. And our activistas work way out there (sometimes 30-40km away) so we had to visit.

On our first stop, we got out of the car with pretty much the entire community watching us. That's the thing about the mato, they don't get many visitors and when people come...its pretty much the only thing happening at the time, so people come out to watch. The nurse, the activista for that area, and I were led to the home of the community leader. We sat at his house, and I was introduced. Afterward, we discussed the situation with people in the community, the people that we knew or suspected of being HIV+, or having terminal illnesses, and the work of the activistas in the community. After our conversation, we came outside to about 50 kids playing on the back of the truck and maybe 50 more surrounding it. Laughing and playing. I took a picture, and they all squealed with delight. This went on in each of the bairros we visited. Throngs of children on the truck, completely fascinated. Riding through communities with kids chasing behind. Driving through tall grass, through narrow paths, on a sunny day with big puffy clouds in the sky. Meeting people, who had no clue which language to greet me in...so they just guessed. People who speak Makua (Emakua) usually see me and greet me in Ciyao. People who speak Ciyao usually see me and greet me in Makua. People that know Portuguese just assume (correctly) that I'm not from around here and its best to just stick to Portuguese. We encountered a group of people, and since its customary to greet everyone individually, I got bombarded with 3 different greetings at a time...and left completely confused.

It was all so beautiful.

That is...until we were driving through tall grass and trees and got a flat tire. No one had cell phone service. And we couldn't find the spare. We all got out and a group of kids, like 40, crowded around us (children just appear out of nowhere around here...). I started to think "what if we're stuck here in the mato?? I have no clue where I am, no clue how to get back home, it'll be dark soon, and I'm thirsty!"

I thought about what would happen if I died out there in the mato. In the wilderness. With the grass and trees and mato kids and bugs and goats. Stupid me for not bringing water. I had some mandioca and sugar cane. That was it. And I don't even like sugar cane, but if I have to chew it to stay alive, I will...

While I was going off into a paranoid rant in my mind, they found the spare. And we all sat around: me, the nurse, the activistas, and the crowd of children, while the driver changed the tire. Things were well, we all piled back in the car, and I didn't die in the mato.

A happy ending.

I Know How Beyonce Feels...if Beyonce did her own laundry...

May, 2011

I feel like Beyonce. Or Michelle Obama. Or Madonna. Or any other really really ridiculously famous woman. Because when they say that being in Peace Corps is like living in a fishbowl, they weren't lying. Everyone is watching me. And everything I do, every move I make, every breath I take, every step I take, they're watching me. And they're absolutely fascinated...

I was ashy the other day. Happens. I pulled out some lotion. Then everyone watched as I rubbed it on, asked me what it was, which resulted me passing around my lotion (that wasn't even special, I stole it from a hotel in Nampula...) so everyone could examine the special "American lotion" that wasn't even American.

I took out my braids one day and wore my hair natural. Big mistake. I got to work and everybody had to touch my hair, comment on my hair and ask me questions about my hair...it was like being in college again (only certain ppl will understand that reference).

If I wear a different pair of shoes....if I paint my nails a new color....if I wear earrings one day....its a huge production. People are just fascinated by my every move. People know me and I have no clue who they are. People yell out to me on the street and are excited to talk to me. Being famous was fun at first...but now I just want to be normal. I'm tired of everyone watching and critiquing my every action, and then commenting in local language to each other..

Believe me, NOTHING is more awkward and annoying than knowing that people are right in front of you talking about you in a language you don't understand...

OH- and don't get me started on me, being a celebrity, and doing something completely off the wall and strange...

My organization has a washing machine. And a dryer.

(I thanked the good Lord in heaven when I heard the news. No more handwashing clothes?? I'm sure I'm the ONLY PCV-esp in Africa- with a washing machine. And a dryer. Envy me)

Anyway, my org got a washing machine and dryer as a way to generate some income on the side. Thing is, everyone here is used to handwashing clothes, and has never even seen a washing machine. So my supervisor said I was welcome to use it at any time...because its just sitting there.

Silly me, I decided to wash my first load of clothes on a Monday. When people were at the office. Needless to say, I've never had an audience while washing my clothes, and I'd prefer it if I never had one again. There were 20 women, crowded around me, as I sorted through my dirty clothes, all asking me how it worked, what to do, and marveling at each step in the process. I turned on the water to a collective "ohh!!". I put in detergent to sounds of utter shock and awe, and comments in local language. I put in my clothes with a group of people breathing down my neck. Everytime I touched a button "what does that do?". "So you don't scrub the clothes first?""How does it get clean?".

I'm just doing laundry. Is it really that big of a deal?

After my first load was done washing, I wanted to use the dryer, but this gang of women protested and said I had to hang my laundry on the line. I'm not quite sure why...they just felt it was better that way. And they all grabbed my clothes and hung them on the line for me...after expressing their concern for my grabbing my wet clothes ("you're gonna get your outfit wet. Here, give me these clothes...")

That's another thing...people treat me like I'm fragile and can't do anything for myself. Or rather....can't do anything at all. I can't even sit with everyone else on the ground, I have to sit in a chair. I don't get my own water from the well that is 15ft away from my door, because the boys in my quintal won't let me. I was carrying a bag a bread the other day (bread! And nothing else) and someone rushed to help me, and grabbed the bag and walked me to my front door. People like to accompany me to the market, or to the store. And if I make a sound, or sigh, or clear my throat...automatically something is wrong with me and everyone is overly concerned.

Does Beyonce have these issues? I think around these parts, I'm more famous than she is. And that's no fun. If everyone here had cameras, I'd be on Mozambican TMZ...

Anyway, although it definitely seems like I'm complaining, I'm not. Ok I am, but its not that bad. I've gotten used to having an audience while I do laundry. And I have to remember that lots of people here have never seen washing machines. The last time I did laundry, I actually had fun showing the women what to do. There were only 2 as opposed to 20. They were some of my younger activistas. AND they asked if they could watch...they were so nice, I couldn't say no. After the clothes were washing, they said "that's it??? And so you can just go on about your day while your clothes are washing? Oh that's AMAZING! You can go for a walk, or cook....its that easy?? No scrubbing for hours in the sun?"

"No, and this machine here dries it for you. 1-2hrs, and you're done with your laundry"

That's right..I'm teaching people how to become lazy Americans. One step at a time.

The Girly Girls Guide to Life in Peace Corps Mozambique

The Girly Girl's Guide to Life in Peace Corps Mozambique

So, there's a new group of Health trainees coming in June. Health tends to be a very girl heavy sector of Peace Corps, and judging from the Facebook stalking I have been doing, there are definitely some girly-girls in the bunch. So, I've decided to share some of the knowledge I've gained, and have developed this short “Girly Girl's Guide to Life in Peace Corps Mozambique”. I hope it helps :)

1. Nail Polish is so important. Bring some. Why is it important? Well, the kind you get here sucks. It gives you something to do when you're bored. And girly girls like to be pretty. It will make you happier. And it's also a good conversation starter. I'm partial to very bright colors that always catch people's attention. Great way to get people talking to you, and therefore excellent for your integration! Also, bring a lot, because you'll be constantly changing the polish on your toes. It gets gross and chipped really quickly, especially if you're at the beach a lot.

2. Make-up is also equally important. That is, if you wore it in the States. I'm an eyeshadow kind of girl, and although I hardly wear it on a day to day basis, there are opportunities (like important functions, nightclub outings, etc) where you want to look like you made an effort. Plus, when you're bored, it also serves as a distraction. And when you're feeling down, it always helps to look pretty (Remember, when you feel your worst, look your best!) Also dont forget lip gloss! Drylip is not cute.

3. BRING YOUR FAVORITE HAIR PRODUCTS! And before you go, find a connect in the States who will send you replacements as you need them. No matter what color you are, or what texture your hair, you will NOT be able to find your favorite hair products. Emergency backup shampoo and conditioner, yes. Maybe even some Pantene. But the Carol's Daughter, L'oreal, Tresseme, Kinky Curly, crème of Nature, Paul Mitchell, etc etc? Not happening. The same also goes for styling tools. You will not find a quality flat iron or blowdryer. Please pack accordingly. (if there is a girl out there who relaxes her hair, you can find Dark and Lovely relaxer. Personally, I dont do that...but it is available. I would just recommend doing it yourself. I have yet to see a good relaxer job on anyone, except for in Maputo and Nampula)

4. Onto the subject of clothes: Before I came to Moz, someone told me that Mozambique is where clothes come to die. They were right. The harsh conditions (handwashing, drying in the hot sun) can definitely take a toll. HOWEVER, you dont just want to bring your “crocodile dundee” hiking clothes either. You will want to express yourself, wear clothes you like, and feel comfortable. Anything you'd be pissed about destroying, dont bring (like, dont bring the Chanel and the DVF). But, I'd say bring your favorites too. Think about it: you're here for two years. Most girls gain weight (although some lose weight. Luckily I'm on the losing side, although barely) and when you get back, will those clothes really fit or be in style? Might as well wear them here where you'll be the most fashionable one in your town. I say find a balance of cute clothes and other clothes. Just know that they will get messed up eventually, so dont put too much effort into it. But also know, that if you're like me, you WILL go out when you have the opportunity to do so. And Mozambican women put effort into their appearance (even if some of them miss the mark). So you want to at least look like you tried.

5. Shoes: Chacos and Tevas are your friends. Because your shoes will take a beating. But, I recommend bringing at least one pair of cute shoes, like a pair of cute sandals. My cute sandals are versatile and just dressy enough to work at all functions. Plus, going out in Tevas is NOT cool.

6. Underwear: No one likes granny panties. But just know that your cute lacy undies won't stay cute and lacy for long.

7. Feet: Bring a pumice stone, or a Ped Egg, or some type of scrubber/scraper, because your feet (especially if you wear flip flops a lot) will get GROSS. QUICKLY and OFTEN. And Claudia (the Training Manager) is strictly against what she calls “Peace Corps Feet” and will probably give you a lecture on properly caring for your feet. Also, Mozambicans notice if your feet are jacked, and will call you out on it.

8. Soaps and Perfumes: While its not necessary to bring your favorite perfume, you might want to have it. Just because. Definitely bring your favorite soap though. The soap here is ok, but there arent many special scents, and it gets you clean, but you dont have that “soft” feeling after using a bar of Caress

9. Batteries: Because when they go out, you'll be pissed.

10. Scented Candles: When the power goes out, its nice to have a delightful scent fill the air. Plus, I just love candles.

11. Deodorant: I saw some Lady Mitchum (the brand I use) at Shoprite the other day. But for safety's sake, bring lots of your favorite kind. You've been forewarned.

12. Baby wipes: You can buy them here, although they're kinda expensive. I realized the value of Baby Wipes in the States. If you havent, then dont worry about it.

13. Baby powder: You can also buy it here. Under-boob sweat is NOT your friend. And chafing is real here, people.

14. Your computer! Dont be one of those PCVs who says “Oh, I want the PC experience. I dont want to bring my computer” You'll just annoy everyone else by always asking to use theirs.

15. Facewash: In training, my skin (and mostly EVERYONE ELSE's too) broke out, terribly. I looked like a pimply faced 16 yr old. So make sure you have a set skin care routine. It might not help initially, but it will help things to clear out once your body stops freaking out.

16. Bath gloves: These were the BEST thing I brought with me, really. Exfoliating is SO necessary, and you actually feel clean, something that is sometimes hard to achieve here when you're taking bucket baths (for a lot of you-outside)

17. Lotion: I dont like the lotion here. I like my Palmer's Cocoa Butter Lotion. SO I brought it, and I'm happy.

18. Razors/Refill Cartridges: They have disposable razors here, which work just fine I guess. Nothing can be as good as my BIC Soleil. Bring your favorite kind, because when you're trying to shave while taking a bucket bath, you need the least amount of complications possible.

19. Earplugs: People in Mozambique wake up early and go to bed late. I, on the other hand, value my sleep.

20. Chewing Gum: I like gum.

21. Its totally ok to bring an unlocked blackberry. You can get the service turned on for a monthly fee,and personally I love having it. Just know that it will take a beating. And it would be smart to get another, cheap phone here to walk around with. Because cities like Nampula are known for being shady...

For now, I think thats it. Luckily, Mozambique is a country where lots of things are available, and there are lots of opportunities for a girly girl to be...well...girly! If you've been chosen to serve in PC Moz, you have definitely hit the lottery! It is amazing here, and I wouldnt want it any other way :)

25 MORE Things I've learned in Peace Corps Mozambique

April 25, 2011

April 27^th marks my 7^th month in this country and my 5^th month at site. I have definitely learned a lot since then, and definitely more since my last “25 things I've learned” post. So here are 25 more things I've learned in Peace Corps Mozambique

1. The more times you face sudden death by riding in a chapa, the more numb to it you become.
2. The reason why roosters arent as obnoxious in the north of Mozambique is because people eat them.

3. Mozambican children can dance way better than you can.

4. Street food is ALWAYS worth the risk

5. There are way more holidays in Mozambique than there are in the States.

6. Considering the varying levels of deodorant usage in Mozambique, some people's armpit smell is actually tolerable. Some people...definitely not.

7. Never EVER try to attempt a physical feat that a Mozambican has been doing for years (like carrying 20L buckets of water on your head.)

8. Everything in Mozambique is like USPS Priority mail: “If it fits, it ships”

9. Children really enjoy running around naked.

10. The rainy season causes actual fault lines in dirt roads.

11. The sunset is way more beautiful in Africa.

12. The Indian Ocean in the best ocean to swim in.

13. Although it's a terrible business practice, all of the women sitting next to each other selling tomatoes (or sitting together selling other similar products) are perfectly happy doing so.

14. There's a fine line between development and changing a culture. Many people dont see that.

15. The Mozambique 20 years from now will look TOTALLY different than the Mozambique now.

16. Mozambicans as a whole are some of the nicest people on the planet.

17. Every person in the world loves free food. Just like college-people will show up if there's food.

18. Women love gossip. And so do men.

19. With the extreme lack of rules and regulations, and large amounts of general recklessness, you would think more people/kids would get hurt...the only difference is when they do get hurt, its just more traumatic and serious.

20. If any man enters your house for more than 5 minutes, you're sleeping with him.

21. When a PCV finds free internet, it's like gold.

22. “American” food in Mozambique is generally disappointing and confusing (the waffles are NEVER waffles. Sausage is pretty much just cut up hot dogs. Bacon is unrecognizable.)

23. You never know how creative you can get with food until your options are suddenly cut down about 75%

24. The concept of “personal space” is almost non existent here

25. People are just nosy. Thats just the way it is.