I arrived in Nampula on Saturday. The airport in Maputo had a problem with their computers, and the entire process was unlike anything I've ever experienced when traveling before. The plane left about 2 hours late...and everyone was annoyed. We flew from Maputo to Beira, had a little break, then flew from Beira to Nampula. The trip was about 2 1/2 hours long total, but they served us a small meal on each leg of the flight. Once we arrived in Nampula, we headed to our hotels for our Supervisor's Conference. This is where we were to meet our counterparts/supervisors for a 2 day conference before we head off to our sites.
The first thing I noticed about Nampula was how diverse it is. I thought it was diverse in the south, but I was so shocked to see ALL TYPES of people...everywhere. Lots of them. Who is "them"? Everybody. Everybody you can think of....Asian (there's a HUGE Chinese community in Mozambique), White, Ambiguously Ethnic, people from various African countries, Indian, various Middle Eastern countries, European countries, etc. There's also a huge Muslim community in Northern Mozambique. Personally, I think Nampula is a beautiful city. Sure, there's trash on the ground in some places, and Nampula gets a bad rap for not being the safest city in Mozambique, but I really like it. A lot. I'm excited to come back and see more of it. It has a really nice vibe...And dont tell anybody I said this, but....I might like it more than Maputo. Maybe. :)
Plus, I saw an Asian man with a fro. Dunno how he did it, but it was amazing.
Sunday night we had dinner with all of the volunteers and the counterparts/supervisors. My supervisor was easy to spot. My supervisor showed up with an Estamos shirt and backpack, talking on his phone. For those of you that dont know, Estamos is the NGO I will be working for. It is well respected internationally, and is a highly successful NGO working in HIV/AIDS and water sanitation. He asked me how my Portuguese was. I told him it was coming along. He assured me that I would learn quickly, especially since there were a bunch of women at the organization waiting for me to arrive.
"Falam muito!!" he said.
I laughed. All women talk alot, so thats to be expected.
I also met another counterpart of one of my fellow PCVs.
"Es Americana tambem?" she asked me.
"Sim, sou Americana"
"Oh...todos Americanos nao sao brancos..."
And it begins. The question of "How can I be American if I'm black?" A lot of people here know that black people live in America. But a lot of people here havent had the chance to actually meet black people from America. Their vision of Americans is still that blonde, blue eyed, rich American. So when they see me, most people just think I'm Mozambican until I say something. Then they think I'm from some other country in Africa. Certainly not American. In Namaacha, the people were well aware that there were 70 Americans living among them, and the people I saw everyday pretty much got used to the fact that I looked like them...but I was still different. Now that I'm away from my Mozambican comfort zone, I'll have to be aware of the fact that people are going to be curious...and have questions.
One of the supervisors in the conference singled me out the next day, and in front of everyone, asked me a question about my race, why I'm in Africa, what I was trying to get out of being in Africa, and how I felt being the only black volunteer in the room. Of course, he didnt know that there are about 10 of us out of the 70 volunteers that just got sworn in, who are black. And he didnt know that I didnt even choose to be in Mozambique, or even Africa for that matter. Peace Corps decided to where to send me. I wasnt offended by his question...I was moreso amused. People are curious. I look like them...but I speak English. And I sit at the table with other Americans, who in my group of Northern Health Volunteers, just happen to all be white. And I relate more to them, because we're American and come from the same place...
I can see how that might be an anomaly to some Mozambicans.
Our group of Moz 15 volunteers is EXTREMELY diverse (I think the most diverse group Moz had ever had). So we're all having some interesting experiences with regards to the various characteristics that make us different, including our racial backgrouds. (One of my fellow volunteers is Taiwanese-American. She told someone she was American, and they told her "No. You're not American. You have slanty eyes, you're Chinese")
Anyway, yeah. After the session, I asked that man if he had anymore questions for me. he said he had LOTS (emphasis on the word LOTS). He has yet to ask me any. I found him just staring at me sometimes though...whatev.
The conference was interesting. Its always fascinating to watch battles of ego as they happen. And since most of the supervisors/counterparts are men...there's a lot of ego in the room. My counterpart is pretty awesome though. hes the right balance, Id say. I'd also say that we have similar personalities, so we get along well. At least...so far.
Anyway, tomorrow I have to leave at 6:30am to be driven to my site. Fun times...but once I get there, I'm at my home for the next two years. No more living out of a suitcase, or lugging around boxes and bags, packing and repacking....nope. The next 2 years, I will live there, in my little house, that according to multiple sources is "5 star". Not like 5 star with running water and lush surroundings, but apparently its a cute little house that people are positive that I will fall in love with.
Vamos ver....
Despedir -se
Let's start with Friday morning...
I was recovering from a sudden decision by my body to start the cleansing process the day before, when I realized: Today is the day I leave Namaacha.
It was about 7am and my room was virtually spotless. I had taken down my mosquito net, packed my clothes, swept the floor...my room looked the same as it did when I first walked into it 2 months prior: Empty, except for my blue suitcase sitting in the corner.
I walked out of my room to find that I was alone in the house. Nothing out of the ordinary. I found the water boiling on the carvao, and made some tea. Since my empregada had officially fujir-ed, my breakfast wasnt sitting out. My mae was no where to be found, so I grabbed some change and walked across the street to buy bread from the padaria. The man greeted me as normal:
"Ola! Tudo bom?"
"Tudo! E Voce?"
"Estou bom! Queres um pao?"
I paid the 5 meticais for my bread, and the extra 1 metical for a plastic bag. He asked, as always:
"Redondo ou complete?"
Of course I got the round bread. The long is more bread for the same price, but the round bread is always warm and soft and delicious. I walked out and realized we were out of butter in the house. Without an empregada, a lot of things just...stopped happening. Like the purchase of butter for my bread in the mornings. I dug around in my pocket and realized I had 10 meticais for cheese. It was my last day in Namaacha. I sprung for a treat. After I bought the cheese from the loja next to the market, I walked back home, made some tea, and had a nice cheese sandwich. It was delightful.
Eventually my sister showed up to ask if I had eaten. I told her yes. She mentioned that she and my mae were procurar-ing agua. Usually the empregada got the water, but since she was officially gone, it was up to my mae to find water when resources were extremely limited. I said "Ta Bom", my usual response for everything when I have nothing else to say. My other sister was off taking her 12th grade exams.
Those are a HUGE deal in Mozambique.
At about 9:15, I collect my things and prepare to leave. My mae was in the kitchen preparing a lunch for me to take. As I walk out she asked:
"A que horas vais sair?"
I was pretty used to her waiting until the last minute to do things like make lunch for me. This was the last lunch she was required to make. All of the trainees had to be on the chapas at 9:30am to drive to Maputo, check in at the hotel, and get ready for the Swear-In Ceremony at the Ambassador's house. I told her I had to leave now, and of course, she told me to wait. Five minutes later, she handed me a bag with an egg sandwich...pretty standard. But this time, it was special..
Usually when my eggs (or fries, or rice, or everything else) are cooked, they are SOAKED in oil. Its pretty disgusting. I spent PST (pre service training) trying to choke them down, but ever since the empregada left, Ive been able to cook my own eggs. And apparently she noticed how I made them because on my egg sandwich was an egg, cooked over medium, minimal oil, and with a slice of CHEESE! Oh how I love cheese, and oh how I love my host mom for sending me off with such a surprise. No egg scrambled in oil stuffed in between hard bread. She actually put some love and care into this sandwich.
As she handed me the food, she apologized for not having more, but since we had no water in the house, it was difficult to cook much else. I was completely ok with it, especially since being overfed was getting really old. She then found some random child to go buy me juice. She NEVER bought me a juice box, but I sure got a tropical blend juice to take with me. :)
On my way out of the door, she presented me with a gift. It was a saucer and teacup set, perfect for my new home way far away in Niassa. She then grabbed one of my bags and proceeded to walk me out. My sister Vanya was standing outside talking to my friend Laura and her sisters. Next thing I know, both of our families were walking us to the place where we would be meeting to leave. Once we arrived, all of the families were there, hugging their Americans, helping with bags, saying goodbye...One group of mothers starting singing. It was really sad to have to say goodbye to the first place we called home in Mozambique. Our families were the first exposure many of us had to Mozambican culture. And it was obvious that the families really grew to love their American sons/daughters/brothers/sisters. There were some tears...some sad faces...but there was also an air of excitement. We were leaving our homes in Namaacha to be sworn in to become Peace Corps Volunteers...and to make our own homes in various parts of the country. We despedir-ed Namaacha, and headed to our hotel in Maputo.
After a long, frustrating 4 hours (I'll take that entire part out. The hotel not having our rooms ready and us having to wait in the lobby unshowered with ALL of our luggage for hours isnt relevant to this post) we arrived at the Ambassador's house for our Swearing In Ceremony. It was the moment we had been waiting for. And it was a surprisingly short. We took the same exact oath that government officials take (yes, even Barack Obama). And then just like that...we were officially Peace Corps Volunteers. We had some words from representatives, and there was a traditional song and dance performed by the volunteers. Then we ate. Then it was over.
I mean...there was more to it, like me talking with the Ambassador about her life in Foreign Service, lots of picture taking, a crazy thunderstorm right before the ceremony started, making the best out of the ugly capulana print we had to wear...but you know, thats not really important...)
Anyway, we spent the night at the hotel, and the next morning, the 70 of us all separated. It was probably the most difficult part. For the past 2 months, we had all been together, 70 Americans in Namaacha. Peace Corps Trainees. But now it was time for us to separate. 5 different conferences, two in Nampula for those of us in the North (1 education and 1 health), 1 in Xai Xai for education volunteers in the South, 1 in Bilene for Health Volunteers in the Central and South, and 1 in Chimoio for education volunteers in the Central regions. We were all going in different directions, and we realized that we wouldnt see each other every day anymore. No more being able to passear about Namaacha, speak English, waste free time together. The friendships we made and the bonds we formed in training would now be stretched across this expansive terrain. Those of us headed to Nampula in the north had a flight to catch at 10am. We watched our friends in the southern regions pile into busses to be driven to Bilene and Xai Xai. There were definitely tears. Lots of them. But what had to be done was done. We were now Peace Corps Volunteers...
I was recovering from a sudden decision by my body to start the cleansing process the day before, when I realized: Today is the day I leave Namaacha.
It was about 7am and my room was virtually spotless. I had taken down my mosquito net, packed my clothes, swept the floor...my room looked the same as it did when I first walked into it 2 months prior: Empty, except for my blue suitcase sitting in the corner.
I walked out of my room to find that I was alone in the house. Nothing out of the ordinary. I found the water boiling on the carvao, and made some tea. Since my empregada had officially fujir-ed, my breakfast wasnt sitting out. My mae was no where to be found, so I grabbed some change and walked across the street to buy bread from the padaria. The man greeted me as normal:
"Ola! Tudo bom?"
"Tudo! E Voce?"
"Estou bom! Queres um pao?"
I paid the 5 meticais for my bread, and the extra 1 metical for a plastic bag. He asked, as always:
"Redondo ou complete?"
Of course I got the round bread. The long is more bread for the same price, but the round bread is always warm and soft and delicious. I walked out and realized we were out of butter in the house. Without an empregada, a lot of things just...stopped happening. Like the purchase of butter for my bread in the mornings. I dug around in my pocket and realized I had 10 meticais for cheese. It was my last day in Namaacha. I sprung for a treat. After I bought the cheese from the loja next to the market, I walked back home, made some tea, and had a nice cheese sandwich. It was delightful.
Eventually my sister showed up to ask if I had eaten. I told her yes. She mentioned that she and my mae were procurar-ing agua. Usually the empregada got the water, but since she was officially gone, it was up to my mae to find water when resources were extremely limited. I said "Ta Bom", my usual response for everything when I have nothing else to say. My other sister was off taking her 12th grade exams.
Those are a HUGE deal in Mozambique.
At about 9:15, I collect my things and prepare to leave. My mae was in the kitchen preparing a lunch for me to take. As I walk out she asked:
"A que horas vais sair?"
I was pretty used to her waiting until the last minute to do things like make lunch for me. This was the last lunch she was required to make. All of the trainees had to be on the chapas at 9:30am to drive to Maputo, check in at the hotel, and get ready for the Swear-In Ceremony at the Ambassador's house. I told her I had to leave now, and of course, she told me to wait. Five minutes later, she handed me a bag with an egg sandwich...pretty standard. But this time, it was special..
Usually when my eggs (or fries, or rice, or everything else) are cooked, they are SOAKED in oil. Its pretty disgusting. I spent PST (pre service training) trying to choke them down, but ever since the empregada left, Ive been able to cook my own eggs. And apparently she noticed how I made them because on my egg sandwich was an egg, cooked over medium, minimal oil, and with a slice of CHEESE! Oh how I love cheese, and oh how I love my host mom for sending me off with such a surprise. No egg scrambled in oil stuffed in between hard bread. She actually put some love and care into this sandwich.
As she handed me the food, she apologized for not having more, but since we had no water in the house, it was difficult to cook much else. I was completely ok with it, especially since being overfed was getting really old. She then found some random child to go buy me juice. She NEVER bought me a juice box, but I sure got a tropical blend juice to take with me. :)
On my way out of the door, she presented me with a gift. It was a saucer and teacup set, perfect for my new home way far away in Niassa. She then grabbed one of my bags and proceeded to walk me out. My sister Vanya was standing outside talking to my friend Laura and her sisters. Next thing I know, both of our families were walking us to the place where we would be meeting to leave. Once we arrived, all of the families were there, hugging their Americans, helping with bags, saying goodbye...One group of mothers starting singing. It was really sad to have to say goodbye to the first place we called home in Mozambique. Our families were the first exposure many of us had to Mozambican culture. And it was obvious that the families really grew to love their American sons/daughters/brothers/sisters. There were some tears...some sad faces...but there was also an air of excitement. We were leaving our homes in Namaacha to be sworn in to become Peace Corps Volunteers...and to make our own homes in various parts of the country. We despedir-ed Namaacha, and headed to our hotel in Maputo.
After a long, frustrating 4 hours (I'll take that entire part out. The hotel not having our rooms ready and us having to wait in the lobby unshowered with ALL of our luggage for hours isnt relevant to this post) we arrived at the Ambassador's house for our Swearing In Ceremony. It was the moment we had been waiting for. And it was a surprisingly short. We took the same exact oath that government officials take (yes, even Barack Obama). And then just like that...we were officially Peace Corps Volunteers. We had some words from representatives, and there was a traditional song and dance performed by the volunteers. Then we ate. Then it was over.
I mean...there was more to it, like me talking with the Ambassador about her life in Foreign Service, lots of picture taking, a crazy thunderstorm right before the ceremony started, making the best out of the ugly capulana print we had to wear...but you know, thats not really important...)
Anyway, we spent the night at the hotel, and the next morning, the 70 of us all separated. It was probably the most difficult part. For the past 2 months, we had all been together, 70 Americans in Namaacha. Peace Corps Trainees. But now it was time for us to separate. 5 different conferences, two in Nampula for those of us in the North (1 education and 1 health), 1 in Xai Xai for education volunteers in the South, 1 in Bilene for Health Volunteers in the Central and South, and 1 in Chimoio for education volunteers in the Central regions. We were all going in different directions, and we realized that we wouldnt see each other every day anymore. No more being able to passear about Namaacha, speak English, waste free time together. The friendships we made and the bonds we formed in training would now be stretched across this expansive terrain. Those of us headed to Nampula in the north had a flight to catch at 10am. We watched our friends in the southern regions pile into busses to be driven to Bilene and Xai Xai. There were definitely tears. Lots of them. But what had to be done was done. We were now Peace Corps Volunteers...
SEND ME THINGS!!!
Thats right folks...there's a new address! For now at least. So use it. Send me some loving, chocolates, cards, and things from Walgreens. Love ya bunches!
Kyla Johnson, PCV
Corpo da Paz/U.S. Peace Corps
Rua dos Continuadores
NR. 24-A
C.P. 526
Nampula, Mozambique
*Bath & Body Works/Victoria's Secret always have semi annual sales in January. I'm gonna need someone who loves me to stock up. I'll post an official Christmas list in a few days for everything else :)
Kyla Johnson, PCV
Corpo da Paz/U.S. Peace Corps
Rua dos Continuadores
NR. 24-A
C.P. 526
Nampula, Mozambique
*Bath & Body Works/Victoria's Secret always have semi annual sales in January. I'm gonna need someone who loves me to stock up. I'll post an official Christmas list in a few days for everything else :)
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