I arrived in Nampula on Saturday. The airport in Maputo had a problem with their computers, and the entire process was unlike anything I've ever experienced when traveling before. The plane left about 2 hours late...and everyone was annoyed. We flew from Maputo to Beira, had a little break, then flew from Beira to Nampula. The trip was about 2 1/2 hours long total, but they served us a small meal on each leg of the flight. Once we arrived in Nampula, we headed to our hotels for our Supervisor's Conference. This is where we were to meet our counterparts/supervisors for a 2 day conference before we head off to our sites.
The first thing I noticed about Nampula was how diverse it is. I thought it was diverse in the south, but I was so shocked to see ALL TYPES of people...everywhere. Lots of them. Who is "them"? Everybody. Everybody you can think of....Asian (there's a HUGE Chinese community in Mozambique), White, Ambiguously Ethnic, people from various African countries, Indian, various Middle Eastern countries, European countries, etc. There's also a huge Muslim community in Northern Mozambique. Personally, I think Nampula is a beautiful city. Sure, there's trash on the ground in some places, and Nampula gets a bad rap for not being the safest city in Mozambique, but I really like it. A lot. I'm excited to come back and see more of it. It has a really nice vibe...And dont tell anybody I said this, but....I might like it more than Maputo. Maybe. :)
Plus, I saw an Asian man with a fro. Dunno how he did it, but it was amazing.
Sunday night we had dinner with all of the volunteers and the counterparts/supervisors. My supervisor was easy to spot. My supervisor showed up with an Estamos shirt and backpack, talking on his phone. For those of you that dont know, Estamos is the NGO I will be working for. It is well respected internationally, and is a highly successful NGO working in HIV/AIDS and water sanitation. He asked me how my Portuguese was. I told him it was coming along. He assured me that I would learn quickly, especially since there were a bunch of women at the organization waiting for me to arrive.
"Falam muito!!" he said.
I laughed. All women talk alot, so thats to be expected.
I also met another counterpart of one of my fellow PCVs.
"Es Americana tambem?" she asked me.
"Sim, sou Americana"
"Oh...todos Americanos nao sao brancos..."
And it begins. The question of "How can I be American if I'm black?" A lot of people here know that black people live in America. But a lot of people here havent had the chance to actually meet black people from America. Their vision of Americans is still that blonde, blue eyed, rich American. So when they see me, most people just think I'm Mozambican until I say something. Then they think I'm from some other country in Africa. Certainly not American. In Namaacha, the people were well aware that there were 70 Americans living among them, and the people I saw everyday pretty much got used to the fact that I looked like them...but I was still different. Now that I'm away from my Mozambican comfort zone, I'll have to be aware of the fact that people are going to be curious...and have questions.
One of the supervisors in the conference singled me out the next day, and in front of everyone, asked me a question about my race, why I'm in Africa, what I was trying to get out of being in Africa, and how I felt being the only black volunteer in the room. Of course, he didnt know that there are about 10 of us out of the 70 volunteers that just got sworn in, who are black. And he didnt know that I didnt even choose to be in Mozambique, or even Africa for that matter. Peace Corps decided to where to send me. I wasnt offended by his question...I was moreso amused. People are curious. I look like them...but I speak English. And I sit at the table with other Americans, who in my group of Northern Health Volunteers, just happen to all be white. And I relate more to them, because we're American and come from the same place...
I can see how that might be an anomaly to some Mozambicans.
Our group of Moz 15 volunteers is EXTREMELY diverse (I think the most diverse group Moz had ever had). So we're all having some interesting experiences with regards to the various characteristics that make us different, including our racial backgrouds. (One of my fellow volunteers is Taiwanese-American. She told someone she was American, and they told her "No. You're not American. You have slanty eyes, you're Chinese")
Anyway, yeah. After the session, I asked that man if he had anymore questions for me. he said he had LOTS (emphasis on the word LOTS). He has yet to ask me any. I found him just staring at me sometimes though...whatev.
The conference was interesting. Its always fascinating to watch battles of ego as they happen. And since most of the supervisors/counterparts are men...there's a lot of ego in the room. My counterpart is pretty awesome though. hes the right balance, Id say. I'd also say that we have similar personalities, so we get along well. At least...so far.
Anyway, tomorrow I have to leave at 6:30am to be driven to my site. Fun times...but once I get there, I'm at my home for the next two years. No more living out of a suitcase, or lugging around boxes and bags, packing and repacking....nope. The next 2 years, I will live there, in my little house, that according to multiple sources is "5 star". Not like 5 star with running water and lush surroundings, but apparently its a cute little house that people are positive that I will fall in love with.
Vamos ver....
Despedir -se
Let's start with Friday morning...
I was recovering from a sudden decision by my body to start the cleansing process the day before, when I realized: Today is the day I leave Namaacha.
It was about 7am and my room was virtually spotless. I had taken down my mosquito net, packed my clothes, swept the floor...my room looked the same as it did when I first walked into it 2 months prior: Empty, except for my blue suitcase sitting in the corner.
I walked out of my room to find that I was alone in the house. Nothing out of the ordinary. I found the water boiling on the carvao, and made some tea. Since my empregada had officially fujir-ed, my breakfast wasnt sitting out. My mae was no where to be found, so I grabbed some change and walked across the street to buy bread from the padaria. The man greeted me as normal:
"Ola! Tudo bom?"
"Tudo! E Voce?"
"Estou bom! Queres um pao?"
I paid the 5 meticais for my bread, and the extra 1 metical for a plastic bag. He asked, as always:
"Redondo ou complete?"
Of course I got the round bread. The long is more bread for the same price, but the round bread is always warm and soft and delicious. I walked out and realized we were out of butter in the house. Without an empregada, a lot of things just...stopped happening. Like the purchase of butter for my bread in the mornings. I dug around in my pocket and realized I had 10 meticais for cheese. It was my last day in Namaacha. I sprung for a treat. After I bought the cheese from the loja next to the market, I walked back home, made some tea, and had a nice cheese sandwich. It was delightful.
Eventually my sister showed up to ask if I had eaten. I told her yes. She mentioned that she and my mae were procurar-ing agua. Usually the empregada got the water, but since she was officially gone, it was up to my mae to find water when resources were extremely limited. I said "Ta Bom", my usual response for everything when I have nothing else to say. My other sister was off taking her 12th grade exams.
Those are a HUGE deal in Mozambique.
At about 9:15, I collect my things and prepare to leave. My mae was in the kitchen preparing a lunch for me to take. As I walk out she asked:
"A que horas vais sair?"
I was pretty used to her waiting until the last minute to do things like make lunch for me. This was the last lunch she was required to make. All of the trainees had to be on the chapas at 9:30am to drive to Maputo, check in at the hotel, and get ready for the Swear-In Ceremony at the Ambassador's house. I told her I had to leave now, and of course, she told me to wait. Five minutes later, she handed me a bag with an egg sandwich...pretty standard. But this time, it was special..
Usually when my eggs (or fries, or rice, or everything else) are cooked, they are SOAKED in oil. Its pretty disgusting. I spent PST (pre service training) trying to choke them down, but ever since the empregada left, Ive been able to cook my own eggs. And apparently she noticed how I made them because on my egg sandwich was an egg, cooked over medium, minimal oil, and with a slice of CHEESE! Oh how I love cheese, and oh how I love my host mom for sending me off with such a surprise. No egg scrambled in oil stuffed in between hard bread. She actually put some love and care into this sandwich.
As she handed me the food, she apologized for not having more, but since we had no water in the house, it was difficult to cook much else. I was completely ok with it, especially since being overfed was getting really old. She then found some random child to go buy me juice. She NEVER bought me a juice box, but I sure got a tropical blend juice to take with me. :)
On my way out of the door, she presented me with a gift. It was a saucer and teacup set, perfect for my new home way far away in Niassa. She then grabbed one of my bags and proceeded to walk me out. My sister Vanya was standing outside talking to my friend Laura and her sisters. Next thing I know, both of our families were walking us to the place where we would be meeting to leave. Once we arrived, all of the families were there, hugging their Americans, helping with bags, saying goodbye...One group of mothers starting singing. It was really sad to have to say goodbye to the first place we called home in Mozambique. Our families were the first exposure many of us had to Mozambican culture. And it was obvious that the families really grew to love their American sons/daughters/brothers/sisters. There were some tears...some sad faces...but there was also an air of excitement. We were leaving our homes in Namaacha to be sworn in to become Peace Corps Volunteers...and to make our own homes in various parts of the country. We despedir-ed Namaacha, and headed to our hotel in Maputo.
After a long, frustrating 4 hours (I'll take that entire part out. The hotel not having our rooms ready and us having to wait in the lobby unshowered with ALL of our luggage for hours isnt relevant to this post) we arrived at the Ambassador's house for our Swearing In Ceremony. It was the moment we had been waiting for. And it was a surprisingly short. We took the same exact oath that government officials take (yes, even Barack Obama). And then just like that...we were officially Peace Corps Volunteers. We had some words from representatives, and there was a traditional song and dance performed by the volunteers. Then we ate. Then it was over.
I mean...there was more to it, like me talking with the Ambassador about her life in Foreign Service, lots of picture taking, a crazy thunderstorm right before the ceremony started, making the best out of the ugly capulana print we had to wear...but you know, thats not really important...)
Anyway, we spent the night at the hotel, and the next morning, the 70 of us all separated. It was probably the most difficult part. For the past 2 months, we had all been together, 70 Americans in Namaacha. Peace Corps Trainees. But now it was time for us to separate. 5 different conferences, two in Nampula for those of us in the North (1 education and 1 health), 1 in Xai Xai for education volunteers in the South, 1 in Bilene for Health Volunteers in the Central and South, and 1 in Chimoio for education volunteers in the Central regions. We were all going in different directions, and we realized that we wouldnt see each other every day anymore. No more being able to passear about Namaacha, speak English, waste free time together. The friendships we made and the bonds we formed in training would now be stretched across this expansive terrain. Those of us headed to Nampula in the north had a flight to catch at 10am. We watched our friends in the southern regions pile into busses to be driven to Bilene and Xai Xai. There were definitely tears. Lots of them. But what had to be done was done. We were now Peace Corps Volunteers...
I was recovering from a sudden decision by my body to start the cleansing process the day before, when I realized: Today is the day I leave Namaacha.
It was about 7am and my room was virtually spotless. I had taken down my mosquito net, packed my clothes, swept the floor...my room looked the same as it did when I first walked into it 2 months prior: Empty, except for my blue suitcase sitting in the corner.
I walked out of my room to find that I was alone in the house. Nothing out of the ordinary. I found the water boiling on the carvao, and made some tea. Since my empregada had officially fujir-ed, my breakfast wasnt sitting out. My mae was no where to be found, so I grabbed some change and walked across the street to buy bread from the padaria. The man greeted me as normal:
"Ola! Tudo bom?"
"Tudo! E Voce?"
"Estou bom! Queres um pao?"
I paid the 5 meticais for my bread, and the extra 1 metical for a plastic bag. He asked, as always:
"Redondo ou complete?"
Of course I got the round bread. The long is more bread for the same price, but the round bread is always warm and soft and delicious. I walked out and realized we were out of butter in the house. Without an empregada, a lot of things just...stopped happening. Like the purchase of butter for my bread in the mornings. I dug around in my pocket and realized I had 10 meticais for cheese. It was my last day in Namaacha. I sprung for a treat. After I bought the cheese from the loja next to the market, I walked back home, made some tea, and had a nice cheese sandwich. It was delightful.
Eventually my sister showed up to ask if I had eaten. I told her yes. She mentioned that she and my mae were procurar-ing agua. Usually the empregada got the water, but since she was officially gone, it was up to my mae to find water when resources were extremely limited. I said "Ta Bom", my usual response for everything when I have nothing else to say. My other sister was off taking her 12th grade exams.
Those are a HUGE deal in Mozambique.
At about 9:15, I collect my things and prepare to leave. My mae was in the kitchen preparing a lunch for me to take. As I walk out she asked:
"A que horas vais sair?"
I was pretty used to her waiting until the last minute to do things like make lunch for me. This was the last lunch she was required to make. All of the trainees had to be on the chapas at 9:30am to drive to Maputo, check in at the hotel, and get ready for the Swear-In Ceremony at the Ambassador's house. I told her I had to leave now, and of course, she told me to wait. Five minutes later, she handed me a bag with an egg sandwich...pretty standard. But this time, it was special..
Usually when my eggs (or fries, or rice, or everything else) are cooked, they are SOAKED in oil. Its pretty disgusting. I spent PST (pre service training) trying to choke them down, but ever since the empregada left, Ive been able to cook my own eggs. And apparently she noticed how I made them because on my egg sandwich was an egg, cooked over medium, minimal oil, and with a slice of CHEESE! Oh how I love cheese, and oh how I love my host mom for sending me off with such a surprise. No egg scrambled in oil stuffed in between hard bread. She actually put some love and care into this sandwich.
As she handed me the food, she apologized for not having more, but since we had no water in the house, it was difficult to cook much else. I was completely ok with it, especially since being overfed was getting really old. She then found some random child to go buy me juice. She NEVER bought me a juice box, but I sure got a tropical blend juice to take with me. :)
On my way out of the door, she presented me with a gift. It was a saucer and teacup set, perfect for my new home way far away in Niassa. She then grabbed one of my bags and proceeded to walk me out. My sister Vanya was standing outside talking to my friend Laura and her sisters. Next thing I know, both of our families were walking us to the place where we would be meeting to leave. Once we arrived, all of the families were there, hugging their Americans, helping with bags, saying goodbye...One group of mothers starting singing. It was really sad to have to say goodbye to the first place we called home in Mozambique. Our families were the first exposure many of us had to Mozambican culture. And it was obvious that the families really grew to love their American sons/daughters/brothers/sisters. There were some tears...some sad faces...but there was also an air of excitement. We were leaving our homes in Namaacha to be sworn in to become Peace Corps Volunteers...and to make our own homes in various parts of the country. We despedir-ed Namaacha, and headed to our hotel in Maputo.
After a long, frustrating 4 hours (I'll take that entire part out. The hotel not having our rooms ready and us having to wait in the lobby unshowered with ALL of our luggage for hours isnt relevant to this post) we arrived at the Ambassador's house for our Swearing In Ceremony. It was the moment we had been waiting for. And it was a surprisingly short. We took the same exact oath that government officials take (yes, even Barack Obama). And then just like that...we were officially Peace Corps Volunteers. We had some words from representatives, and there was a traditional song and dance performed by the volunteers. Then we ate. Then it was over.
I mean...there was more to it, like me talking with the Ambassador about her life in Foreign Service, lots of picture taking, a crazy thunderstorm right before the ceremony started, making the best out of the ugly capulana print we had to wear...but you know, thats not really important...)
Anyway, we spent the night at the hotel, and the next morning, the 70 of us all separated. It was probably the most difficult part. For the past 2 months, we had all been together, 70 Americans in Namaacha. Peace Corps Trainees. But now it was time for us to separate. 5 different conferences, two in Nampula for those of us in the North (1 education and 1 health), 1 in Xai Xai for education volunteers in the South, 1 in Bilene for Health Volunteers in the Central and South, and 1 in Chimoio for education volunteers in the Central regions. We were all going in different directions, and we realized that we wouldnt see each other every day anymore. No more being able to passear about Namaacha, speak English, waste free time together. The friendships we made and the bonds we formed in training would now be stretched across this expansive terrain. Those of us headed to Nampula in the north had a flight to catch at 10am. We watched our friends in the southern regions pile into busses to be driven to Bilene and Xai Xai. There were definitely tears. Lots of them. But what had to be done was done. We were now Peace Corps Volunteers...
SEND ME THINGS!!!
Thats right folks...there's a new address! For now at least. So use it. Send me some loving, chocolates, cards, and things from Walgreens. Love ya bunches!
Kyla Johnson, PCV
Corpo da Paz/U.S. Peace Corps
Rua dos Continuadores
NR. 24-A
C.P. 526
Nampula, Mozambique
*Bath & Body Works/Victoria's Secret always have semi annual sales in January. I'm gonna need someone who loves me to stock up. I'll post an official Christmas list in a few days for everything else :)
Kyla Johnson, PCV
Corpo da Paz/U.S. Peace Corps
Rua dos Continuadores
NR. 24-A
C.P. 526
Nampula, Mozambique
*Bath & Body Works/Victoria's Secret always have semi annual sales in January. I'm gonna need someone who loves me to stock up. I'll post an official Christmas list in a few days for everything else :)
Celebrate Good Times...Come On!!
November 27, 2010
Today was the homestay celebration party where all of the families of each volunteer got together for a giant party. It was fun. I would post pictures, but of course...my computer is still down. Still waiting on dad :)
After the celebration, my sister said we were going to another party for a wedding that was on that day. I asked her what should I wear. She said whatever...whatever you'd wear to a party...
Turns out, it was an actual wedding reception. And I was severely underdressed.
It was great to finally see a wedding reception here. It was absolutely beautiful. Actually, it wasn't much different from a wedding in the States. There was even a "move your car" announcement....
...And an awesome cheesy wedding singer with the MIDI keyboard singing Lou Rawls songs. That might have been my favorite part....
Its always interesting to see the many different races of people that live around here. Mozambique, at least down here in Maputo province, is way more diverse than I thought it would be. There were all types of people at the wedding. Too bad I didn't really meet anyone except for the people at my table...my sisters were wondering why I didn't get up to get food immediately. I didn't know how to say "I am not dressed appropriately for this occasion so I am not getting up", so I just told them I wasn't hungry. They blew it off, told everyone at the table that I didn't speak Portuguese, and after that everyone pretty much ignored me. No big deal. Being American gets me out of a lot of situations where uncomfortable, forced small talk would otherwise take place. Even if I understand everything someone is saying (which most of the time, I do), I can just pretend like I don't, smile and nod, and people just leave me alone or treat me like the "slow kid in the class"....but it saves me from interacting with people I don't want to talk to.
Well, sometimes it does. In this case, I still had to deal with the boyfriend of some girl who knew my sister. Everytime she walked away, he started talking to me. Ugh...these Mozambican men...
Anyway, what was interesting aside from the cheesy wedding singer, the "damas" and "damos"(Which to my understanding are like bridesmaids and groomsmen, but they were all really young, like teenagers) were also a source of entertainment at the reception. They had to do these choreographed dances, and even had costume changes throughout the evening. They started with a waltz style dance, very formal and traditional. Then later they did a salsa dance. Later they did a Mozambican version of the electric slide ("the hustle" for the Detroit people). Its basically the same, except for there's two dips instead of one. People were joining in, and by that time, not eating and the unlimited open bar was starting to set in, so I jumped up and joined in....
Until some lady stepped on my foot and broke my shoe....
I was beyond annoyed. I hobbled back to my seat with my broken shoe. At that point, there was nothing for me to do but sit, drink, and deflect advances from that guy who was CLEARLY already taken.... So that's what I did for the rest of the night...
At one point, I had to pee. I asked the woman sitting next to me where the bathroom was. She said there wasn't one. Weird. I knew there was a bathroom there because I had been to that place before and I remember there being one, I just didn't remember where. So I asked one of my sisters, who then turned to the same woman and told her to take me to the bathroom. The woman grabbed my hand and led me outside. As I hobbled down the street (because of my broken shoe) I asked where we were going. She said "oh, behind these cars". I thought she meant to the building behind the cars...which likely had a bathroom. But nope...once we got behind the cars, she looked around, and said "ok, do like this" and she squatted down and started peeing. At that point, I REALLY had to go, so I had no choice....I squatted behind the car and peed with her.
Yep. I sure did.
That's why you should always have TP and hand sanitizer with you...
Anyway, after that, I hobbled back to the reception, sat at the table again and resumed my drinking/observing/deflecting.
The groom came around and greeted all of the men at the reception and gave them mini bottles of gin. The bride was absolutely gorgeous. She came around in her white gown and greeted all of them women and gave us mini bottles of Amarula (a South African version of Kaluha, but so much better). Not sure if that is a tradition or if they just decided to do it. A lot of money went into this wedding though, it was a grande event.
I also learned that wedding celebrations last for two days here. Because my friend mentioned a party the next day, and we went...turns out it was the same bride and groom. This time, it was ok that I was underdressed. It was a huge party with lots of singing and dancing and everyone presented the gifts to the bride and groom.
There was a pick up truck FULL of gifts when it was over....
There was more food. Someone handed me an entire PLATE of cake. There was also JELL-O!! Lots of wine. Good times.
Anyway, I swear in as an official Peace Corps Volunteer on Friday December 3rd! No more training! Then I jet off to Nampula for a conference, then over to Mandimba...
Its hard to leave Namaacha and have to say goodbye, but I'll get through it. Now its time for the real work...the real integration...the real job...everything I've been preparing for. This is the time where cards/care packages/letters and whatnot would be awesome from home. Just to help me adjust to not having 70 other Americans living around me, and not having a host mother make my food everyday, or not speaking English in some form everyday...you know..transitioning. I'll put my new address on here soon and some special requests as well :)
Today was the homestay celebration party where all of the families of each volunteer got together for a giant party. It was fun. I would post pictures, but of course...my computer is still down. Still waiting on dad :)
After the celebration, my sister said we were going to another party for a wedding that was on that day. I asked her what should I wear. She said whatever...whatever you'd wear to a party...
Turns out, it was an actual wedding reception. And I was severely underdressed.
It was great to finally see a wedding reception here. It was absolutely beautiful. Actually, it wasn't much different from a wedding in the States. There was even a "move your car" announcement....
...And an awesome cheesy wedding singer with the MIDI keyboard singing Lou Rawls songs. That might have been my favorite part....
Its always interesting to see the many different races of people that live around here. Mozambique, at least down here in Maputo province, is way more diverse than I thought it would be. There were all types of people at the wedding. Too bad I didn't really meet anyone except for the people at my table...my sisters were wondering why I didn't get up to get food immediately. I didn't know how to say "I am not dressed appropriately for this occasion so I am not getting up", so I just told them I wasn't hungry. They blew it off, told everyone at the table that I didn't speak Portuguese, and after that everyone pretty much ignored me. No big deal. Being American gets me out of a lot of situations where uncomfortable, forced small talk would otherwise take place. Even if I understand everything someone is saying (which most of the time, I do), I can just pretend like I don't, smile and nod, and people just leave me alone or treat me like the "slow kid in the class"....but it saves me from interacting with people I don't want to talk to.
Well, sometimes it does. In this case, I still had to deal with the boyfriend of some girl who knew my sister. Everytime she walked away, he started talking to me. Ugh...these Mozambican men...
Anyway, what was interesting aside from the cheesy wedding singer, the "damas" and "damos"(Which to my understanding are like bridesmaids and groomsmen, but they were all really young, like teenagers) were also a source of entertainment at the reception. They had to do these choreographed dances, and even had costume changes throughout the evening. They started with a waltz style dance, very formal and traditional. Then later they did a salsa dance. Later they did a Mozambican version of the electric slide ("the hustle" for the Detroit people). Its basically the same, except for there's two dips instead of one. People were joining in, and by that time, not eating and the unlimited open bar was starting to set in, so I jumped up and joined in....
Until some lady stepped on my foot and broke my shoe....
I was beyond annoyed. I hobbled back to my seat with my broken shoe. At that point, there was nothing for me to do but sit, drink, and deflect advances from that guy who was CLEARLY already taken.... So that's what I did for the rest of the night...
At one point, I had to pee. I asked the woman sitting next to me where the bathroom was. She said there wasn't one. Weird. I knew there was a bathroom there because I had been to that place before and I remember there being one, I just didn't remember where. So I asked one of my sisters, who then turned to the same woman and told her to take me to the bathroom. The woman grabbed my hand and led me outside. As I hobbled down the street (because of my broken shoe) I asked where we were going. She said "oh, behind these cars". I thought she meant to the building behind the cars...which likely had a bathroom. But nope...once we got behind the cars, she looked around, and said "ok, do like this" and she squatted down and started peeing. At that point, I REALLY had to go, so I had no choice....I squatted behind the car and peed with her.
Yep. I sure did.
That's why you should always have TP and hand sanitizer with you...
Anyway, after that, I hobbled back to the reception, sat at the table again and resumed my drinking/observing/deflecting.
The groom came around and greeted all of the men at the reception and gave them mini bottles of gin. The bride was absolutely gorgeous. She came around in her white gown and greeted all of them women and gave us mini bottles of Amarula (a South African version of Kaluha, but so much better). Not sure if that is a tradition or if they just decided to do it. A lot of money went into this wedding though, it was a grande event.
I also learned that wedding celebrations last for two days here. Because my friend mentioned a party the next day, and we went...turns out it was the same bride and groom. This time, it was ok that I was underdressed. It was a huge party with lots of singing and dancing and everyone presented the gifts to the bride and groom.
There was a pick up truck FULL of gifts when it was over....
There was more food. Someone handed me an entire PLATE of cake. There was also JELL-O!! Lots of wine. Good times.
Anyway, I swear in as an official Peace Corps Volunteer on Friday December 3rd! No more training! Then I jet off to Nampula for a conference, then over to Mandimba...
Its hard to leave Namaacha and have to say goodbye, but I'll get through it. Now its time for the real work...the real integration...the real job...everything I've been preparing for. This is the time where cards/care packages/letters and whatnot would be awesome from home. Just to help me adjust to not having 70 other Americans living around me, and not having a host mother make my food everyday, or not speaking English in some form everyday...you know..transitioning. I'll put my new address on here soon and some special requests as well :)
Reality Check!!!
November 18, 2010
The Portuguese language has this awesome word: "La". When someone wants to describe something that's far-way far away they say its "la". Its usually used in an exagerated manner..."Laaaa!!". Or "la la laaaa" usually coupled with a hand motion demonstrating just how far away it is.
Peace Corps service is about being flexible and remaining open minded. The moment you begin to focus on your expectations, and lose sight of the real reason why you chose to serve in the Peace Corps is the moment you begin to dread being a volunteer. It is important to always remember that a volunteer agrees to go whereever he or she is needed. Whereever that may be is out of his or her control. A successful Peace Corps Volunteer willingly accepts the assignment they are given, and adapts to the situation they are placed in...flexibility and adaptability are two qualities they look for in volunteers in the selection process.
So...site placements were today...
Let's start with the beginning of the day. I wasn't really nervous at all. I was actually the voice of reason. My fellow trainees were all worried about placements and where we would end up for the next 2 yrs. I, confident that I'd be place somewhere that I requested, assured everyone to be open minded, relax, and willing to accept what was to come. I spent the entire day relaxed. When it came time for site announcements, I rushed to the front, was the first person in the gym area where we received our envelopes, and took pictures of everything. My name was the second to be called, but I had to wait until everyone got their envelopes to open mine. We opened all of our envelopes at the same time...and there it was...
Mandimba, Niassa Province.
Where is that you ask? Its LAAAAAAAAA. The job description and site were the exact OPPOSITE of what I wanted. No large site. No site mate. No placement in the southern region. Nope...I'm headed to Niassa, the most remote, undeveloped province in Mozambique. Its WAY FAR north, on the other side of the country. I was sure we were on the same page....I thought my APCD knew exactly what I wanted....
She knew. But she obviously knows better.
Mandimba sits on the border with Malawi. There are currently 0 (yes, zero) Peace Corps Volunteers in the province. The 6 of us that are going are gonna pretty much be the trailblazers. I won't be completely alone, the other volunteers are all within 2-3 hrs of me. But since no one is there right now, I don't really know much about it. All I keep hearing is "oh...Niassa...that's far. But its beautiful!!". People keep saying they're going to visit. A lot of the current volunteers are saying they've been waiting for someone to be placed there so that they could visit. We'll see....
So anyway...there's always one person who cries on site placement day. I was wondering who that idiot would be...
Guess who it was?
I'm much better now. Most people have said that they weren't pleased with their placements, but eventually they came to love it. And some people have said they got what they thought they wanted, and then hated it. I will be working with and organization called "Estamos", which from my research, actually looks pretty cool. They even have a band that travels the country and has won all types of awards and had a CD that went gold. And apparently the founder of the organization even owns a discoteca...
So yeah...I guess it MIGHT be a perfect match...
If only it weren't so far away...
The Portuguese language has this awesome word: "La". When someone wants to describe something that's far-way far away they say its "la". Its usually used in an exagerated manner..."Laaaa!!". Or "la la laaaa" usually coupled with a hand motion demonstrating just how far away it is.
Peace Corps service is about being flexible and remaining open minded. The moment you begin to focus on your expectations, and lose sight of the real reason why you chose to serve in the Peace Corps is the moment you begin to dread being a volunteer. It is important to always remember that a volunteer agrees to go whereever he or she is needed. Whereever that may be is out of his or her control. A successful Peace Corps Volunteer willingly accepts the assignment they are given, and adapts to the situation they are placed in...flexibility and adaptability are two qualities they look for in volunteers in the selection process.
So...site placements were today...
Let's start with the beginning of the day. I wasn't really nervous at all. I was actually the voice of reason. My fellow trainees were all worried about placements and where we would end up for the next 2 yrs. I, confident that I'd be place somewhere that I requested, assured everyone to be open minded, relax, and willing to accept what was to come. I spent the entire day relaxed. When it came time for site announcements, I rushed to the front, was the first person in the gym area where we received our envelopes, and took pictures of everything. My name was the second to be called, but I had to wait until everyone got their envelopes to open mine. We opened all of our envelopes at the same time...and there it was...
Mandimba, Niassa Province.
Where is that you ask? Its LAAAAAAAAA. The job description and site were the exact OPPOSITE of what I wanted. No large site. No site mate. No placement in the southern region. Nope...I'm headed to Niassa, the most remote, undeveloped province in Mozambique. Its WAY FAR north, on the other side of the country. I was sure we were on the same page....I thought my APCD knew exactly what I wanted....
She knew. But she obviously knows better.
Mandimba sits on the border with Malawi. There are currently 0 (yes, zero) Peace Corps Volunteers in the province. The 6 of us that are going are gonna pretty much be the trailblazers. I won't be completely alone, the other volunteers are all within 2-3 hrs of me. But since no one is there right now, I don't really know much about it. All I keep hearing is "oh...Niassa...that's far. But its beautiful!!". People keep saying they're going to visit. A lot of the current volunteers are saying they've been waiting for someone to be placed there so that they could visit. We'll see....
So anyway...there's always one person who cries on site placement day. I was wondering who that idiot would be...
Guess who it was?
I'm much better now. Most people have said that they weren't pleased with their placements, but eventually they came to love it. And some people have said they got what they thought they wanted, and then hated it. I will be working with and organization called "Estamos", which from my research, actually looks pretty cool. They even have a band that travels the country and has won all types of awards and had a CD that went gold. And apparently the founder of the organization even owns a discoteca...
So yeah...I guess it MIGHT be a perfect match...
If only it weren't so far away...
week 6 is almost over!
November 12th, 2010
I am in week 6 of training. Things are busy, but moving along quickly. Next Thursday we get our site announcements!! Yay!! So I'll know where I'm going and what I'll be doing...how exciting! My Portuguese is coming along well. I can tell the difference between Xangana and portuguese! ....but it will be a little while before eu falou bem portuguese...
But I'm trying :)
I've absolutely fallen in love with Namaacha. Its such a beautiful place, with great people. Right now its sunny, the sky is clear, there's a constant breeze and its 91 degrees...one of the hotter days. Its summertime in Mozambique...so while its cold back home, I'm headed to the beach next week! Training has been going well. Its been a pleasure meeting and interacting with everyone. We have an extremely bright group of people, especially the health volunteers. I'm learning so much.
Last week we had a really fun permagardening training. I didn't think I would enjoy it, but it turned out to be a great experience-spending the day outside getting dirty. Our seeds are already starting to sprout, and I'm actually looking forward to starting a permagarden when I get to site. I'll let you know how that goes.
Also last week, the Peace Corps driver pulled up with about 30-40 packages from the States. None for me though...I'm sure you guys are just waiting for the holidays to send me things, right? Yeah...ok...
In some ways, I'm excited about site placements. Training is hella stressful, and it will be great to know where I'll be and what I'll be doing and to finally get to the place where I'll be for the next 2 years....but in some ways, I really want to stay in Namaacha. I've met some awesome people here. And I kinda don't want to leave this place I've made into my home. But alas...all good things must come to an end. That's life. And in about 3 weeks, I'll be sworn in as a Volunteer, and I'll get on a plane, or into a car, to be whisked off to my site and dropped off in my new community.
I'm nervous!
Next week we get to have a mental health break, so some of us are heading to Xai Xai to hang out at one of the MANY fabulous beaches in Mozambique. Life is the Peace Corps is about working hard...but sometimes you have to play hard too! We just had the most fun Halloween party that you could think of. I went as a goddess...originally Grecian...but people kept guessing African...hmm, wonder why...
Either way, it was a good time
Random thoughts:
1.) The TV in my homestay stopped working, so I haven't been able to catch up on my Brazilian novellas. My mae says it should be fixed soon.
2.)There's a gas station here that sells ice cream, laughing cow cheese, pineapple fanta, and doritos, among other things.
That's all I have to say about that.
3.) I've stopped washing my face with regular water. Between the new water and all of the stress, my face looked like the rocky mountains...now with my filtered water, there's just a few little hills....
4.). I found another Laura. I'll leave that one for the people who know my Laura in the States...
5.) I can text in portuguese like a pro. I found someone to practice with :)
My sisters should be coming in from Maputo tomorrow. Should be a good time, as always. Once I get my computer up and running again (it won't charge.... Daddy should be sending me an external charger soon-i hope) I'll post some pictures. I haven't taken that many, so I guess I should get on it.
I am in week 6 of training. Things are busy, but moving along quickly. Next Thursday we get our site announcements!! Yay!! So I'll know where I'm going and what I'll be doing...how exciting! My Portuguese is coming along well. I can tell the difference between Xangana and portuguese! ....but it will be a little while before eu falou bem portuguese...
But I'm trying :)
I've absolutely fallen in love with Namaacha. Its such a beautiful place, with great people. Right now its sunny, the sky is clear, there's a constant breeze and its 91 degrees...one of the hotter days. Its summertime in Mozambique...so while its cold back home, I'm headed to the beach next week! Training has been going well. Its been a pleasure meeting and interacting with everyone. We have an extremely bright group of people, especially the health volunteers. I'm learning so much.
Last week we had a really fun permagardening training. I didn't think I would enjoy it, but it turned out to be a great experience-spending the day outside getting dirty. Our seeds are already starting to sprout, and I'm actually looking forward to starting a permagarden when I get to site. I'll let you know how that goes.
Also last week, the Peace Corps driver pulled up with about 30-40 packages from the States. None for me though...I'm sure you guys are just waiting for the holidays to send me things, right? Yeah...ok...
In some ways, I'm excited about site placements. Training is hella stressful, and it will be great to know where I'll be and what I'll be doing and to finally get to the place where I'll be for the next 2 years....but in some ways, I really want to stay in Namaacha. I've met some awesome people here. And I kinda don't want to leave this place I've made into my home. But alas...all good things must come to an end. That's life. And in about 3 weeks, I'll be sworn in as a Volunteer, and I'll get on a plane, or into a car, to be whisked off to my site and dropped off in my new community.
I'm nervous!
Next week we get to have a mental health break, so some of us are heading to Xai Xai to hang out at one of the MANY fabulous beaches in Mozambique. Life is the Peace Corps is about working hard...but sometimes you have to play hard too! We just had the most fun Halloween party that you could think of. I went as a goddess...originally Grecian...but people kept guessing African...hmm, wonder why...
Either way, it was a good time
Random thoughts:
1.) The TV in my homestay stopped working, so I haven't been able to catch up on my Brazilian novellas. My mae says it should be fixed soon.
2.)There's a gas station here that sells ice cream, laughing cow cheese, pineapple fanta, and doritos, among other things.
That's all I have to say about that.
3.) I've stopped washing my face with regular water. Between the new water and all of the stress, my face looked like the rocky mountains...now with my filtered water, there's just a few little hills....
4.). I found another Laura. I'll leave that one for the people who know my Laura in the States...
5.) I can text in portuguese like a pro. I found someone to practice with :)
My sisters should be coming in from Maputo tomorrow. Should be a good time, as always. Once I get my computer up and running again (it won't charge.... Daddy should be sending me an external charger soon-i hope) I'll post some pictures. I haven't taken that many, so I guess I should get on it.
40 Things Ive learned in my First 5 weeks of Training
November 8, 2010
I just finished my 5th weekof training and am now just over halfway done. Time is flying by, and before I know it, I'll be at my site...and I'll be there for the next 2 years. While I've been here in Namaacha, I've had a lot of time to observe things relating to Mozambique, Namaacha, and life as a PCV in general. So I decided to make a list...
I'm sure I'll add to this later, but for now, here are 40 things I've learned so far, in no particular order
1. Roosters have no sense of time
2. Pedestrians yield to cars. It is NEVER the other way around.
3. MSG makes everything taste better
4. Onions, oranges, and everything in between taste better in Mozambique
5. Mozambicans love their beer.
6. Mozambican people have no problem telling you how much you suck at something, or if you look a hot mess, or if there are pimples on your face...
7. No matter the age or the gender, everyone loves Justin Beiber and Lady Gaga
8. Dogs have no problem having sex right in front of you. Neither do cats, chickens, frogs, goats, random insects, etc...
9. There is a reason why Mozambican people usually take about 3 baths a day...
10. The phrase "hotter than Africa" only applies to Namaacha about twice a week. Other times its just really cold and/or really rainy
11. "Boas festas!" does NOT mean Happy Holidays...
12. Lizards are your friends
13. There are lots of "ninjas" in Mozambique...and they're probably contributing to the high prevalence of HIV...
14. Children pretty much come out of the womb knowing how to dance
15. If you aren't hungry, you must be sad or angry about something...
16. Sometimes you won't know which part of the chicken you're actually eating...
17. Uncles can go from cool to creepy in under 15 seconds.
18. If you don't have speakers, pulling the car up, opening the doors, and blasting your stereo works as well
19. Its perfectly ok to get into a car (not driving!) with a glass/open bottle of beer
20. People don't really understand the concept of an "only child"
21. the louder the music is in the bar, the more empty it is
22. Chickens pretty much know their fate. They always have a sad look in their eyes.
23. Even in Mozambique, stores start selling Christmas decor way too early
24. The quieter you are, the more nervous you're making the people around you...
25. Nothing is better than walking past guava, mango, avocado, papaya, and banana trees everyday....
26. Always carry toilet paper
27. Being called fat = compliment.
28. Your body gets used to eating 5 times a day very quickly...
29. Brazilian TV is way more raunchy than in the States...but the acting is so bad that you can't look away.
30. Its perfectly normal to be awaken at 6am by someone blasting electro house music...or to try to fall asleep at 9pm to someone blasting R.Kelly
31. FOFOCA TRAVELS REALLY FAR, REALLY QUICKLY...and yes....everyone is fofoca-ing about you...because there's nothing else to do
32. When it all comes down to it, no matter the situation, we all just want to have fun and love life.
33. You have never been truly uncomfortable until you've ridden in a chapa
34. All you need is an entryway to an apartment building with a few electrical outlets and you can have a fully functioning beauty/barber salon
35. the best word in the portuguese language: "passear". Close runner up: "ja"
36. The best snack foods are purchased on the side of the road...
37. The human body is amazing. You should thank God everyday for your body's natural ability to completely reject and purge anything it doesn't like...
38. Pepto bismol is equally amazing.
39. Laundry is the best morning workout
40. Children are two things: creative and resilient
I just finished my 5th weekof training and am now just over halfway done. Time is flying by, and before I know it, I'll be at my site...and I'll be there for the next 2 years. While I've been here in Namaacha, I've had a lot of time to observe things relating to Mozambique, Namaacha, and life as a PCV in general. So I decided to make a list...
I'm sure I'll add to this later, but for now, here are 40 things I've learned so far, in no particular order
1. Roosters have no sense of time
2. Pedestrians yield to cars. It is NEVER the other way around.
3. MSG makes everything taste better
4. Onions, oranges, and everything in between taste better in Mozambique
5. Mozambicans love their beer.
6. Mozambican people have no problem telling you how much you suck at something, or if you look a hot mess, or if there are pimples on your face...
7. No matter the age or the gender, everyone loves Justin Beiber and Lady Gaga
8. Dogs have no problem having sex right in front of you. Neither do cats, chickens, frogs, goats, random insects, etc...
9. There is a reason why Mozambican people usually take about 3 baths a day...
10. The phrase "hotter than Africa" only applies to Namaacha about twice a week. Other times its just really cold and/or really rainy
11. "Boas festas!" does NOT mean Happy Holidays...
12. Lizards are your friends
13. There are lots of "ninjas" in Mozambique...and they're probably contributing to the high prevalence of HIV...
14. Children pretty much come out of the womb knowing how to dance
15. If you aren't hungry, you must be sad or angry about something...
16. Sometimes you won't know which part of the chicken you're actually eating...
17. Uncles can go from cool to creepy in under 15 seconds.
18. If you don't have speakers, pulling the car up, opening the doors, and blasting your stereo works as well
19. Its perfectly ok to get into a car (not driving!) with a glass/open bottle of beer
20. People don't really understand the concept of an "only child"
21. the louder the music is in the bar, the more empty it is
22. Chickens pretty much know their fate. They always have a sad look in their eyes.
23. Even in Mozambique, stores start selling Christmas decor way too early
24. The quieter you are, the more nervous you're making the people around you...
25. Nothing is better than walking past guava, mango, avocado, papaya, and banana trees everyday....
26. Always carry toilet paper
27. Being called fat = compliment.
28. Your body gets used to eating 5 times a day very quickly...
29. Brazilian TV is way more raunchy than in the States...but the acting is so bad that you can't look away.
30. Its perfectly normal to be awaken at 6am by someone blasting electro house music...or to try to fall asleep at 9pm to someone blasting R.Kelly
31. FOFOCA TRAVELS REALLY FAR, REALLY QUICKLY...and yes....everyone is fofoca-ing about you...because there's nothing else to do
32. When it all comes down to it, no matter the situation, we all just want to have fun and love life.
33. You have never been truly uncomfortable until you've ridden in a chapa
34. All you need is an entryway to an apartment building with a few electrical outlets and you can have a fully functioning beauty/barber salon
35. the best word in the portuguese language: "passear". Close runner up: "ja"
36. The best snack foods are purchased on the side of the road...
37. The human body is amazing. You should thank God everyday for your body's natural ability to completely reject and purge anything it doesn't like...
38. Pepto bismol is equally amazing.
39. Laundry is the best morning workout
40. Children are two things: creative and resilient
No News = Good News
I'm not sure which R. Kelly album it is, but someone outside my window is blasting it really loudly right now. That's pretty much how it always is. If it isn't music, its roosters crowing, or dogs fighting, or cats having sex....either way, its always loud outside. Doesn't help that I live on the main road by the market...so there are always people. Its almost like living in the city, so I can deal with the noise. Even at 5am (I was awoken today at 5am by rihanna/eminem).
Training is going well. I have been attempting to learn the language so I can "adjust" and "integrate" better. I think that's happening even without me being fluent in Portuguese. My sisters have managed to drag me to the discoteca every weekend for the past 3 weeks. Actually, I wanted to go...its fun! And I need some fun, because training gets stressful. My host mother's birthday was last week. We had a huge party. I bought us matching capulanas. There was a double chocolate cake that was to die for. TO DIE FOR!! A few of my fellow PCTs came, and we sang the Stevie Wonder version of Happy Birthday...everyone loved it. They all joined in (and were still singing it the next day).
We took a day trip to Matola last weekend. It was my second time there. Matola is like a suburb of Maputo. Appatently a lot of affluent people live there. We visited this shopping center, got lost in the wonder that is Shop Rite (like a Mozambican WalMart, but more amaz-ng), ate pizza at this little cafe surrounded by ex-pats, and took a chapa back to Namaacha.
I'm not sure if I should explain the wonder/horror/much needed life experience/test of patience/personal space invasion that is the "chapa ride" yet...I don't even know if I can put it into words...
Just know that the main form of public transport here is the chapa, and if you imagine packing 25 people, babies, chickens and goats into a 15 passenger van, you might get the point.
I'll go into more detail later. My empregada just brought out my dinner. Matapa, rice, and....eggs?
Whatev...I'm hungry
Training is going well. I have been attempting to learn the language so I can "adjust" and "integrate" better. I think that's happening even without me being fluent in Portuguese. My sisters have managed to drag me to the discoteca every weekend for the past 3 weeks. Actually, I wanted to go...its fun! And I need some fun, because training gets stressful. My host mother's birthday was last week. We had a huge party. I bought us matching capulanas. There was a double chocolate cake that was to die for. TO DIE FOR!! A few of my fellow PCTs came, and we sang the Stevie Wonder version of Happy Birthday...everyone loved it. They all joined in (and were still singing it the next day).
We took a day trip to Matola last weekend. It was my second time there. Matola is like a suburb of Maputo. Appatently a lot of affluent people live there. We visited this shopping center, got lost in the wonder that is Shop Rite (like a Mozambican WalMart, but more amaz-ng), ate pizza at this little cafe surrounded by ex-pats, and took a chapa back to Namaacha.
I'm not sure if I should explain the wonder/horror/much needed life experience/test of patience/personal space invasion that is the "chapa ride" yet...I don't even know if I can put it into words...
Just know that the main form of public transport here is the chapa, and if you imagine packing 25 people, babies, chickens and goats into a 15 passenger van, you might get the point.
I'll go into more detail later. My empregada just brought out my dinner. Matapa, rice, and....eggs?
Whatev...I'm hungry
Phones and things!
I finally got my phone numbers! If you buy a calling card in the States, you can call me MUCH cheaper than I can call you...
So here it is: 258 82 065 3322
you can also use my other number: 258 84 713 6049, but I'm gonna pretty much just use that one for internet...
Oh yeah, in Mozambique, everyone gets two numbers.
Texting me should be pretty cheap. Oh yeah, and I have free incoming calls :)
So here it is: 258 82 065 3322
you can also use my other number: 258 84 713 6049, but I'm gonna pretty much just use that one for internet...
Oh yeah, in Mozambique, everyone gets two numbers.
Texting me should be pretty cheap. Oh yeah, and I have free incoming calls :)
And more updates....,
October 5, 2010
So…I’ve learned a lot since my first day at my homestay. First off, I only have 4 sisters: Yvonne, Ana Carla, Vanya, and Chiquita. Not sure of their ages, but I’m sure I placed them in order from oldest to youngest and they’re in the 18-30ish range…Chiquita pulled me into the kitchen on Sunday to show me how to make rice and to ask how old I was. At the time, I was unsure of what she said, but my Portuguese is a bit better now, so when I see her again, I’ll ask how old she is. Anyway, the other girls that were there, Luisa and Amelia are what are called “empregadas” or maids. So yeah, we have an empregada. My host sisters live in Maputo, and they come on weekends to visit with Ana Teresa, my host mom, so that’s why they all showed up randomly on Saturday. I’m slowly learning. Amelia is Yvonne’s empregada, so she brought her along. I spoke to my empregada for a little bit today, and she told me she’s 14. I’ll ask later about the circumstances, once my Portuguese gets better, but I’m pretty sure she lives here. I never see her leave…Anyway, empregadas are pretty common here, especially since Ana Teresa cant do everything, like going to get water, etc. She has Luisa do all of the cleaning, water fetching, random grocery runs, and chicken killing. I have yet to see a chicken killed…but I have seen my dinner walking around about 2 hours before we had some of the best grilled chicken you can think of..
On Sunday, Yvonne took me to church. We hopped in her car and drove down the road. It was kind of weird, since most other people were walking to church, and here we pull up in her car. It was the first Sunday, and of course, since it’s Catholic, that meant communion time. Everything was in Portuguese and I was a bit confused. Yvonne kept tapping me to let me know when to kneel and when to stand. She also handed me change to get up and put in the collection plate. At one point, everyone started getting up and walking, and she stood, but didn’t tap me. Since I was confused, I just followed her. Shortly after, I realized it was in the communion line! It was too late for me to turn around and sit down, so I took the communion wafer, and went back to my seat. I think I was supposed to say something as I took it, or make some sort of gesture, because the nun looked at me kinda weird. Anyway, I got back to my place, and kneeled and said a quick prayer (asking God to forgive me…because I was probably embarrassing Him). Since everything was in Portuguese and I hadn’t been to a Catholic church in ages, I wasn’t quite sure of when to take the communion…so I didn’t. I still have the communion wafer hidden in my Portuguese book…
I know. I’m a mess.
After church, I was forced to greet people outside. I was finally called fat. But here, it’s a compliment. People like fat. One volunteer was showing pictures to her family and they said “Oh, you were more fat in this picture. You looked good!!” So yeah, here fat=good. Being called fat = compliment. Anyway, a group of girls stopped me to say hello. They found out I spoke English and decided to practice. One girl asked “Oh, you’re with Mona Yvonne?” It was my second day in Namaacha. I had forgotten Yvonne’s name. I asked her what she was talking about. She made a motion with her hands “You know, Mona Yvonne! She’s very……fat!” I guess it was true. Yvonne’s hip/thigh/butt area is bigger than mine! She’s very, very….plump in that area. Anyway, I guess I made a face, because the girl looked at me and said, with concern and while making a slightly smaller motion with her hands, “Oh, but Mona Kyla is very fat too!!”
By the way, “Mona” is like a term of endearment, it means Big Sister. And yeah…the kids think I’m fat, and therefore pretty. Something like that.
Anyway, when we got back from church, my host mother and sisters were hanging out on the porch. We live directly next to the market, so it’s a very high traffic area. Since one of my goals as a Peace Corps trainee is to successfully integrate into my host family, I sat outside with them. They asked if I wanted a “refresco” (pop – or soda for the non-northerners). I declined, saying I was fine with my water. But they insisted. And being surrounded by women…they wouldn’t back off. So eventually, I ended up with an orange Fanta. My host mother and sisters were drinking “cerveja” (beer). They asked if I wanted some, I declined. About 20 minutes later, another one of my host sisters asked. I declined. About 20 minutes later, another sister. Eventually, my host mother asked if I drank beer in the US. I said no, not really. I might have one with friends. That’s all she needed to hear….next think I knew, there was a glass in my hand. It was really interesting, because so many families here are very traditional. Not my host family. Here we were, a bunch of women sitting in front of the apartment drinking beer, talking to people passing by…
All kinds of people stopped by. I was introduced to Tia Monica (Aunt Monica), some cousins, neighbors, etc. Most people who stopped thought I was Mozambican, from Maputo. Once they realized I didn’t speak Portuguese, my family told them I was from the States. Tia Maggie and Tio Maurice (Tia/Tio = Aunt/Uncle) stopped by. They talked for a bit. Once they found out I spoke English, they addressed me with what English they knew, but they were having a conversation about something with everybody else. I have no clue what they were talking about, but it seemed interesting. My host mom gave some money to some kid to get her three chickens. He came back, and set them down. They were just as confused as I was. Then Luisa came out with a bucket, and Tia Maggie put the chickens in a bucket. They just kinda sat there like they knew just as well as I did what was about to happen to them. Then all of a sudden, Tia Maggie turns to me and says “Vamos!”. Then my Yvonne says, in Portuguese of course, “Go with Maggie and Maurice”. So I did. We got into the car, with the chickens on the trunk, and drove down the street. Tia Maggie says, in English “this is how our family is”. I think she meant random…because out of the blue we just up and left.
On the way, Maggie told me she was an ophthalmologist in Breia. She said Maurice lived in Maputo, and they had to find time to visit each other when they were working. They asked me a few questions, and we pulled into a GORGEOUS house down the road, with beautiful landscaped land and a huge backyard. I realized we were at a good old fashioned Sunday BAR-B-QUE!!! And it was really nice!! I felt like I was at home, except everyone spoke Portuguese. They sat me in the livingroom in front of the TV while the women fussed over the food in the kitchen. There were 3 cakes, some appetizers, and they were setting up food outside, buffet style. The livingroom was REALLY nice. It was bi-level, with a really interesting marble tile, a fireplace, and really cool stone/slate walls. I was impressed at how lovely the house was…and how much this family reminded me of so many families in Detroit, TN, and Chicago. Anyway, Tia Maggie came and handed me a plate with salad, rice and beef. She pointed out what was on my plate (“salada, arroz, carne!”) and sat it in front of me. I ate it, and drank my Pepsi. I was satisfied. About 30 minutes later, my host mother shows up, sees that I’m drinking pop, and promptly pours me a beer. Then Ana Carla finds me and hands me a plate of these things everybody was snacking on. I don’t know the name, but imagine homemade crab Rangoon, but instead of the cream cheese/crab filling, there’s fish and onions. Sounds weird, but trust me…they were DELICIOUS! Then another Tia (I forgot her name, which is sad, because I really like her) SLAPPED me on the thigh, and told me to follow her…
The problem with Mozambique so far, is that a lot of times, you think you’re eating a meal, but you really aren’t. They serve a lot of “meals before meals” as I like to call them. So what I thought was a meal definitely was not. I got outside to find the buffet. There was grilled chicken (yep…probably the ones I saw walking around about 2 hours beforehand), grilled beef and sausage, salad, potatoe salad, xima (a traditional Mozambican dish made of cornmeal and whatnot. Its like cream of wheat when you don’t add enough water/milk, so its kinda dry and sticky. And it tastes like nothingness, but its really filling), cabbage/greens/carrots, and…I don’t remember what else, but there was a lot of food. And it was all good. I finished what I could manage to eat, and went outside to attempt to talk to people. My host mother found that my glass was empty and she filled it again. A few minutes later, she told me to go with Yvonne to pick up my host nephew. So I set the glass down and got into the car. Before she pulled out, my host mother walked up to the car and put the glass in my hand.
No, it isn’t illegal to have random glasses of beer in the car in Mozambique.
Long story short…I met a lot of people. We were house hopping, and apparently EVERYBODY in Namaacha was having a party on Sunday. I was offered way more food than I could even want. And once we returned to the original BBQ, they dragged (literally DRAGGED) me out of the car and made me dance…I’m surprised by how much electronic music I’m hearing in Mozambique. We were dancing to songs that I knew…I felt like I was back in Chicago at Sound-Bar. They also played some tribal-ish music (more like tribal house music)/. Anyway, everyone was impressed by my dancing skills. It was fun. Then they tried to drag me to a nightclub. I told them no (that would be against SO many Peace Corps rules, and it would have been against my better judgment), and eventually (after stopping at another aunt’s house) we went home. THEN my sister asked me “Kyla, you’re going to go to bed without dinner??” I THOUGHT WE JUST HAD DINNER!!! Jeez…Anyway, I told her yeah, I was tired, and I went to bed.
That was my Sunday. My Monday wasn’t that exciting. I had language classes all day. In the afternoon, we went around to each person in our language group’s houses and had to introduce our families in Portuguese. It went well. It was fun seeing how some of the other volunteers were living compared to where I live. Their families are all very nice. Today my host mother made me go to the bakery and buy bread. She sent the empregada with me to make sure I was ok. Thankfully the bread store (It’s a bakery, but all they sell is bread) is directly across the street, and the man who owns it has a Peace Corps Volunteer living with him too, so he knew me, and knew my Portuguese skills were…well…non-existent. Tomorrow my mother says I have to cook dinner, she’s gonna teach me how. She pretty much thinks I’m an idiot, I think. She taught me how to use a stove today, haha. I didn’t know how to say “I already know how to light a gas stove”, so I just went with it. Also, the food today was really good. Breakfast was an omelet with tomato and onion. Lanche (which is the meal between breakfast and lunch) was crackers, as usual, but I traded some of my peanut butter and crackers for these yummy coconut cookies. Lunch was more grilled beef, spaghetti noodles in olive oil and some kind of spices, not sure, but it was good, with a salad. And lanche #2 (between lunch and dinner) was bread and peanut butter (the bread here is really good, so that’s a treat) And dinner was grilled chicken and sausage (she was grilling on the back porch with a small charcoal oven thing.) a tomato and onion salad, and xima. (which was good this time, because it mixed with the dressing from the tomato and onion salad, so it had flavor). I couldn’t finish I though, because I had eaten too much today, so I told my mother my stomach was full,and she was ok with that. Thank goodness she’s not like some other host mothers. Ive heard horror stories already of mothers who feed their volunteers enormous amounts of food…
Anyway, I know this is long. Things are well here. I’ll update soon!
Updates!
October 2, 2010
Wow...today has been an interesting day...
We left our comfy, posh hotels in Maputo, packed onto busses, and drove about an hour away through the mountains to the village of Namaacha. On the way, we saw the most beautiful, large spacious homes on the coast in Maputo right next to the poorest slums you could ever think of. We saw people on the sides of the roads selling all types of things. We drove through tiny villages with nothing but a few houses, some made of stones, some made of grass and sticks. We saw women carrying live chickens by their feet to go home and cook. We saw women balancing all types of things on their heads...buckets of water, luggage, some with babies on their backs. We saw all types of goats and chickens and cows roaming about. And we saw the most beautiful terrain. Then we arrived in Namaacha...
Lets say that this whole day has been NOTHING like I expected. Namaacha is pretty much like all of those sites rolled into one. There are people who love in small houses built from cement or wood, and there are people who have more stable structures. I'll get to that in a bit. We pulled into a facility that was OBVIOUSLY brand new construction, since it was REALLY nice, even by American standards. It is apparently the new teacher training center. We went around to the gymnasium, and some of the local boys we playing basketball on the new court, so some of the volunteers joined them...that was entertaining....
We waited and waited and finally our host families all came out singing a song. It was really beautiful. I cried...that wasnt the only time I cried today...but I'll get to that later. So once the song was over, we all went to find our host families. I kept searching and searching but I couldnt find mine...eventually I found a woman with another volunteer who was also holding my name. I asked if we were together, and she said "Oh, you with my sister". My host mother wasnt even there!! So I felt a bit abandoned already..(then again, it seems like something my own mother would do, so I shouldnt feel that bad...) Anyway, all of the host families grabbed their American and trotted down the road, hand in hand. The woman I was with dropped off the other volunteer, Kaitlyn, and her house first. Her son and daughter ran out, greeted us, and we were on our way. We kept walking, while some of the locals stopped and asked what was going on. (One of them though I was her guard because im so tall...grr). We finally made it to an apartment building on the main road. There was a man getting his hair cut downstairs. We went past him, up the stairs, and there we were. My homestay house.
When we were looking at the map of where we would be staying, one of the current volunteers said "Oh yeah, I think that place might be really nice from what I remember". Like I said, NOTHING like I expected. When we were learning how to take bucket baths, I didnt think that my bucket bath would be INSIDE, in a BATHTUB, in a bathroom WAY bigger than any of the ones I've had before. No need for me to learn to use a latrine, because we have a toilet (yeah, you have to pour water down it to flush, but its better than going in the backyard) The apartment is huge! There are 3 bedrooms, a kitchen and a livingroom, (with leather furniture), and an area that I'm not sure what purpose it serves, but its like a room with a couch, table, and overflow from the kitchen...there is a dining area (with really nice chairs carved from wood and a table, and a balcony in the back that overlooks the terrace where people hang their clothes and stuff. We have electricity, but no running water. We have a TV, which is pretty much programmed to Brazilian soap operas all day. My bedroom is huge by my standards. They kept telling us our rooms would be small, but I have plenty of room. The floors are finished and glossy. Dont know what you call that. But yeah...the place is far from what I expected.
Some people do have to go outside to shower and use the latrine. Somehow I lucked out. By American standards, yeah, its not the GREATEST place...but it is really nice.
So I arrived at my house and my...aunt (who explained that she was married to my host mom's brother I think-it was all in Portuguese) left me with Ana Teresa. My host mom Ana Teresa was cooking and there was a girl wandering around who looked to be about 16. That was Luisa, my host sister. Ana explained (in Portuguese) that her other daughters were in Maputo for the day, and would be back later. After my first successful bucket bath (in my super-lush surroundings) we ate. I think she could tell that I was nervous, and she started talking about another volunteer she had two years ago named Molly. Then she pulled out her cell phone and called her. Molly said "she always calls when there's a new volunteer, I dont know why", and she assured me that I was in great hands, and I would be fine. She also mentioned that there were a bunch of sisters. After lunch (of rice with green beans and carrots, fried potatoes, and fish and a banana for desert), Ana Teresa helped me set up my mosquito net, and I took a nap.
When I woke up, Luisa was asleep on the couch. I grabbed my Portuguese books and sat on the other couch. She woke up, and said something to me in Portuguese. I smiled and nodded (thats pretty much all i've been doing). She walked out. Ana Teresa was nowhere to be found. A few minutes later, there was a knock on the door. I waited. No one answered it. The knocking continued. No one answered. I got up to find someone, and it turns out...I was by myself! There was a female voice yelling in Portuguese and beating on the door. I couldnt find Ana Teresa or Luisa, and I was NOT about to open the door...I went to my room and sat there. Then I thought "wait...what if that IS Ana Teresa and Luisa?" I went to the door, kinda hesitant, and opened it. There stood five women (including Luisa) and 2 babies and a little boy. They said hi, pushed past me, and I saw the look on Luisa's face. She had locked herself out. Eventually I realized that all of these women were Ana Teresa's daughters! That's what Molly meant! I forgot all of their names, but there's Ana Carla, Velma, and the other two...no wonder this place is so big. The little boy (about 2 or 3) was so cute. I think his name is Ricky, and I think he kept asking me to pick him up. They told him to call me "Tia" which means "Aunt". The first thing he did was run up to me with a banana, held it up to me and said "BANANA". I dont know if he was trying to teach me Portuguese or what, but he eventually had me peel it for him. The sisters kept trying to talk to me in Portuguese....that didnt go so well. After my snack time (bread, peanut butter, tea, fruit) I got a bit overwhelmed with the kids, and one of them started braiding the other one's hair, then two boys came over and they were all talking, and everything was in Portuguese and I couldnt understand or communicate, so I grabbed my water and my books and I went to my room. Then I started crying again. I think it was just an overwhelming feeling, feeling stupid because I didnt understand anyone and couldn’t communicate. It was just too much, too fast. One of my sisters knocked on the door, and told me she was making dinner. I asked her to let me know when it was done, and I fell asleep again.
When she woke me up, I felt much better. Ana Teresa was back, the boys were gone, and only one of the children was still awake, the youngest baby, It was a little easier to communicate, since I know some Spanish, its become kinda easy to understand basic questions. By the end of dinner, I was calm, and my sisters were asking me questions. Ana Teresa started saying (in Portuguese) "Oh, she knows words though, she just needs to work on grammar. But she knows words! Molly didnt know ANYTHING when she got here, you'll be fine" They asked what religion I was. I didnt know how to say non-denominationa, so I said Baptist, which they said 'Oh, Baptist Evangelical"...I dunno....all I know is, they're Catholic, and I have to be in church at 8am tomorrow. So they sent me to bed. All in all, I know I'm not the only volunteer who might be having a difficult time adjusting. Thankfully Ana Teresa has done this before, so she knows what to expect.
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